Some childhood memories are based on experience and others are imagined.  Looking at this picture of my mother holding me makes me feel that I remember the moment an unlikely event as I was less than a year old.  Even knowing this rationally does not make it seem any less real.

I am also in the planning stages of three other novels, and a series of intertwined short stories, all of which I have high hopes for.  One of the shorts is being polished up right now, to send to my beta reader, and then I'll be submitting that for an anthology.  Happily, if it doesn't get picked up, I still have other plans for it, so either way, this is a good thing!

~~Elle

These are Deby Lake's Tidal Wave socks which were available here but don't seem to be there any more. So here's a link to their Ravelry page.

These were lovely to knit, the stitch pattern was very easy to follow. Unfortunately, I used a slightly too heavy yarn which I bought at the Old Bus Depot Markets during the celebration of wool day in May. So I probably won't wear them outside much, but they do make comfortable and sturdy socks to wear around the house on cold days.

Yarn: Fibreworks 70% merino 30% silk 4ply
Needles: 2.25mm dpns
Modifications: I continued the stitch pattern on the top of the foot all the way down to the toe shaping, rather than finishing at the ankle. I reversed the stitch pattern for the second stock so that they would be symmetrical.
Ravelry Project Page

Silky Doll once said that as soon as you finish the first sock, you should cast on the second. This is very good advice, and I've decided to extend it, so that as soon as I finish one pair of socks, I cast on another. That way I always have some knitting that's small enough to take with me during my commute.

This time I'm using a self-striping yarn from Lincraft, and keeping it simple so that the stripes are the main feature. I've just started the heel flap on the first sock. The yarn is shades of grey, and I took this photo against a charcoal background. So this is not actually a black and white photo.

Woo!  DH had band practice tonight, so I got the house to myself.  And best of all, I got my office organized!  OMG so much better.  DH's office is a disaster, but that's totally the norm.  I shut the door on it.

Anyway, was working on a totally new scene tonight.  It starts at a kind of arbitrary point because I really didn't know where to begin.  I'm hoping that something inspires me on that front tomorrow.  In any event, I've got another stretch to write before I'm finished with the present scene, then that'll be followed by another totally new scene.  I've got plenty to keep me busy over Labor Day weekend.

Been doing some more casting and wanted to show off.

Here's a layout with all the trench pieces I have done so far.

The different color is because I have been experimenting with mixing the somewhat expensive, high density plaster I was using with cheaper plaster of paris from Lowes. It works but I don't think it's a big enough savings to be worth the extra mess and reduced strength of the finished pieces.

Here are some close ups of the more interesting parts of this layout.

I think I am about done casting these for a while. There is enough here for a decent enough layout and I would like to get them painted before our next meeting (that's only a week away so I am not real optimistic about that though).

I have also been doing some crystal formations that would be awesome for Necron themed terrain.

These are mainly just test casts to make sure the molds work OK. What I really want to do is cast these out of clear resin, ideally tinted green, but so far I haven't had much success at tinting the stuff and it takes WAY more time to cast the clear resin than it does plaster. Like a week instead of an hour so I don't know how soon I'll have anything to show on that front.

That's all for now. Ta

Troy

Now ... here we are, after you have spent some time away from the painting look at the piece and everything that is inaccurate should be obvious, write notes to yourself, you'll forget to change something that you've spotted if you rush in.  If your having problem seeing the  drawing ( a line drawing is very difficult for anyone to decipher) turn the drawing upside down and some things will become more obvious.  Remember the line drawing is just a basic start, now you will bring the drawing together with tone or what artists call "value"

  The first thing to change will be the doted lines once you decide if the shadows are correct you will put them in...  There will be value that will be difficult to see, this is usually a mid value.   If your unsure what the term "mid value" means...  its simple, If the binoculars are the darkest item in the photo it would represent a 10 on the value scale, the face will never be more than a five on any child's face,  ( black skin is the only exception and you'll have to keep checking back with me to see how to paint people of color) and a mid value will be about a 2.5 to 3...so when deciding your values keep this in mind.   Everyone sees white and black its the values in the middle that will confuse you.  As an artist, you'll have to translate these to color and I'll explain that when we get there.    To check your values you can use cross hatching or even just smudges to place the shadows,  Do not rub in the graphite as it will embed itself in the paper and give a dirty appearance to the finished product.    I draw right on the paper I paint on but you may wish to draw on a translucent piece of vellum or even plain Bristol and transfer the image.  This is especially good if you erase a lot.  Also this image can be used again if needed as you will always have this drawing. The one on the painted surface is covered up.

If you are going to transfer the image to your board, canvas or paper use Seral transfer paper, its the best.  It comes in all types of colors ( even white)  but I buy gray.  Its expensive but lasts forever because its reusable and if you belong to an art club you can split the expense with another artist. 

Also you may wish to buy some pencils with very thin lead.  ( drafting pencils are good or just a pencil with a hard lead) I've noticed many artists don't realize the line of their lead is thick and this minute amount of space  between  the inside of the line and the outside of the line is all that may be needed to adjust an eye that is too far apart or a nostril that looks too wide.   If your drawing with a hard pencil, be aware not to press into the paper too much... in fact, hold you pencil very lightly.  Do not hold the pencil as you would for writing but more in a sketching manner.  You will be able to give the line more character and not press so hard.   For this demonstration, I have adjusted the drawing so it will show on the screen but it is actually much lighter than this on the paper.  I put this drawing in a photo software program, darken it and also changed it to black and white .  Graphite is more gray than black so the camera doesn't pick it up well.  Do this for most drawings you wish to put on line.

Ok lets talk about photographs 

Photographs are not accurate...  they are flattened so the foreshortening will be off and the values are made in bigger jumps than our eye will actually see......... 

1.  You should  meet the child/dog,  or in my case Koi and(when possible )take the photo yourself.  A lot of what we know about a person isn't visual, so there is more information you can distill if you have a chance to see the child. The personailty  and mannerism are missing from a photo but if you see the child you will have an emotional three dimensional aspect that you  can't substitute.   Also sometimes a child will smile crooked but this isn't their "look"  you won't know this if you only have one pphoto.  If you are working from multiple photos make sure they are photos of the child at the same age and preferable all out doors and in the same season.  Light is different in summer than winter and this may throw you off also if its over cast in one picture and bright sun in another you will see things differently.

 2. use outdoor light

3. take color photos but change them over to black and white in a photo software program so you will have accurate values and if you want you can grid the drawing for accuracy.

Also measuring is a good way to check the distance between things,,, like the ears and the brow or the tip of the nose to the bottom of the chin.  Remember when drawing, you will be drawing the outer most line then back filling with value to create the turn ...so something may look too long or too wide before you put in the value.  Do not change anything until your values are in place.   Also in a photo  the actual placement of say the hairs of the eyebrow will be difficult to see, in this case  use standardized art measurements.  If you don't know what these are, write me I'll give them to you.

Suddetta raccolta si svolge in forma di contest (qui annunciato), percui tutti coloro che vorranno partecipare sono pregati di presentare alla nostra mailing list le rispettive proposte entro il 14 settembre badando di rientrare entro i vincoli: si legga la mail sopra linkata ed il successivo thread per sapere i parametri su dimensione, colori e licenza d'uso che devono essere rispettati.

Attendiamo impazienti le idee degli artisti filo-pinguineschi di Torino!