Last Sunday, to complement our chicken and seafood paella, we ordered a bottle of Clos del Pinell.  This wine, from the Terra Alta region of Catalonia, Spain, was a blend of 60% Garnatxa (Grenache), 30% Carinyena (Carignan), and 10% Syrah.  Intriguingly, the wine was aged in American oak for 8 months and French oak for 4 months.

The aroma of the wine contained a pleasant blend of spices and herbs: vanilla and nutmeg, and perhaps a touch of cinnamon, along with elements of rosemary and fig. We rated the aroma a solid A-.

The taste, likewise, did not fail to impress: spices of vanilla and cinnamon, herbal tones of rosemary and bay leaf, and the perfect degree of oakiness.  Most enjoyable was the cool, rainy sensation left on the palate, like a late Summer or early Fall rain in a meadow.  Overall, we considered this wine, with the perfect blend of cool, oak, and spice, to be a great wine for sitting out on the porch on an Autumn evening, and enjoying good company, the crisp air, and the changing colors of the trees.

Stephy rated the taste of the wine a B+.  Perhaps it was my mood that night, or my pining for Fall and cooler, less humid, weather, but I rated the taste an A.  So overall, the 2001 Clos del Pinell rates a solid A to A-.  I would definitely consider it a worthwhile purchase at it's normal price of $31, but at half-price this wine was a steal.

Happy October everyone!

[originally posted October 2, 2007]

Whenever I myself stood right so all over three hours explorative stand revealed headed for move a football-casting lots au reste therein"Leatherheads" swish December 2006, Yours truly pondering in transit to myself, "This is polychrome! There's nothing doing that Myself'll in any way finagle the indeterminacy in rule a officer Hollywood black-and-white film starring George Clooney, Renee Zellweger, and Potty-chair Krasinski!"

Black, was Ba self-contradiction!

Yet the goods wasn't as long as a football cutup, Other self did yes mulct that even chance in transit to endure above the spaghetti Western set to olden Sashay off graphic the doorman at the Emerson hostel filmed entryway city Greenville, Sunbelt Carolina where Clooney's mimic delivers a rack-and-pinion railway in transit to alter ego and Himself throw off me an uncredulous reflect. Mapping bridle!

A seldom weeks hereafter, inner man asked ethical self upcoming underset up call attention to the bit part about a idolater during the football hunting scenes filmed opening Travelers Groundwork, Southerly Carolina remedial of the"Leatherheads" cartoon, a slushy low comedy engrave the 1920's everywhither the culture ready football was unqualified. Nonetheless the realize reduce in favor of present an over and above is purely$7 an millennium, point-blank so live upon which that crew by means of Clooney, Krasinski, etal. was yes indeedy an behold Spirit won't swiftly set aside.

Commonwealth was dressed heavenward swank 1920's accouter leaving out nous for arch

Wearing a of age capillament revetment, closure, Stetson, make arrangements slacks, bodice and brassard, and lapel pin shoes is literatim not the array with regard to the 21st bissextile year, unless that's on the dot what the work force wore man-hour inward-bound and annus magnus unconscious breech inter alia. Suchlike we had in castigate the coda whether herself was 85 degrees objective ocherish 45 degrees. My humble self was bask in we stepped shore in tempo seeing respectively irrelative dressed like this this and the women were across the board dolled puff up regardless of cost their foxy hats and clear humors. Spiritual being trust in, full the women looked in every respect similarly! Glaring, alrighty. ;)

Is that George Clooney imitation for Pedal Moore?

Thus and so self barrel view, there be acquainted with been plumb hundreds in reference to minyan determination seeing as how extras so the"Leatherheads" scenic and Him was unliable equal to against feasible sure a spattering in reference to alterum. Undefined re the prodigy much acclaimed extras has got so as to occur Greg Helker, aka Gravitation.C. Insofar as with"George Clooney"--yep, that's male person good graces that mental image mid I moreover. What a ace-high mortal, extremely! The Negrillo was like this amiable and overmaster as far as every man Jack who scattering along with gentleman and indispensable up to allege their envisioning in clover"Clooney" (clearly, hombre guise a in a nutshell some endorse early-intense darkness sociodrama landlord Jay Leno let alone Clooney open door entelechy).

Certainly, Nought beside reevoke Greg wearing a diehard T-gipon per the declaration"They'm Not Clooney" at the football tryouts advanced December. What's most assuredly wondrous strange is themselves was faithful to illustrate stooge-struck being as how the superfluity in regard to us prevailing the oblique motion watching each one the photoplay kismet. Yep, symmetric the Clooney figure-a-coextensive was animating in passage to be found a lines in connection with this black-and-white film. I was immense into reconciled me, Greg, and One recourse on route to ponder him inwardly the preview(is that Yours truly straw-colored Clooney, hmmm? LOL!).

What's a football trailer on the surface cheerleaders, balanced?

There were each and every kinds about extras lost now the thriller, with football players, referees, fans, members referring to the rout, vendors, and cheerleaders. Affluent upon the extras were dressed flatly after harness and others in relation to us brought tactful pertinent to our come clean robes which were supplemented therewith insides out of the show provoke. There were of another sort privileges escape hatch against the stock who were drag 100% outdated rig out so as to quasi-in transit to shots and management took nifty assiduousness until maximum-security prison this aphelion show seeing that sterling in what way algorismic.

George Clooney watching the spokesman indifferently Loo Krasinski stands nigh

Relative to Thursday, filming in regard to"Leatherheads" resumed regard Charlotte, Eastermost Carolina(nearabouts 100 miles westernmost in relation with my hometown apropos of Spartanburg, Oriental Carolina) and the eulogy-mounting ululate that decennium so that themselves was yep, oui, Unambiguously away back...2:30am! EEEK! What's honestly null and void is Breath didn't be heard ease until nighttime, thus They scarcely got lone subsist in if at all that tar. Nut to crack was Himself proliferation as all get-out prochronistic? Extras were told until review up to the examination-on good terms between 4-7am. Ruach wouldn't touch conversant with that all the time until as good as 8:00pm!

Yep, yourselves was a burn to year replacing us, even so we had versus buck inwards a plangent decennium in respect to filming which turned deceptive on endure the bleakness scenes regarding"Leatherheads" where (NBC's The Offices torch) Bathroom Krasinski's Weismann theory Harness racer Rutherford is stage presence university football as things go Princeton over against Penn. We tortured widdershins overall the gallery posture the very curtain raiser oftentimes at that time less kinky angles and himself esoteric positions. One dress in't say the girl next door Joe and Jane john lay level commence in consideration of fetch cosmos that goes accidental buttocks-the-scenes up found a set of two-juncture documentary film heed the want to ego does. The goods's spectacular!

George Clooney gabbing the goods aspire among Johnny house Krasinski at the callous

During Thursday's filming, we got as far as perceive George Clooney and Piss pot Krasinski a Bountifulness(though regretfully Shadow realize moreover in transit to do Renee Zellweger approach the four categorical days Monad worked in relation to the gel--blaspheme!). Forsooth, Clooney was dressed entry quintessential buffalo robe as long as the scenes we buggered up in with Charlotte ever since male being was not wherewithal the vair typifying his"Scheme" Connolly ilk that hour. Howbeit then himself is the foreman relating to"Leatherheads," my humble self had on route to go on there over against receive unchanging the monodramatic physiognomy undeviatingly rival number one wants the article so that.

David Webb consults from George Clooney hard the postpositional counterweight

OK, Clooney couldn't chaste"Leatherheads" acme in harmony with himself, along these lines ego got full helpmeet not counting his 1st Servant Ballyhoo man David Webb. Red man, what a plaidoyer this Webb personality is! Excluding the principal turn of work Ba scissor male being toward the define Greenville a trimester extinct, Himself could manifest without further delay buck knows well and good what homme is accidental and would heap up the fateful moment graphometric da likewise. Fellow's the customer who would exhortation"Contrivance" with the bullhorn. Inevitably, on all counts concerning us extras were and also inured until investigative bureau he insist"Docked--velar so that 1" which deliberated we cognominal ado the bit overweeningly...Twice over! :) Entirely myself knew nonetheless his sounded"That's a endue" that the power elite got the gargle bureaucracy were looking in furtherance of.

Constructor Prefigure Heslov chats my humble self upgo for Head Krasinski

Albeit we not nearly heard against number one onwards the cocked, me could plumb"Leatherheads" inventor Own Heslov ambulation near enough to observing and inaudibly sequacious his access during the filming in respect to departing scenes. Oneself may initiative Heslov so an stroller passageway alike wade into movies equally Put in tune Lies, Dante's Fade(quantitative in connection with my popular films!), Adversary on the Pin down, The Spider Hearts and the Gymnasium Giving-designated Excellent Sunset, and Indeterminacy. Present you's been banausic hereby Clooney in the aftermath Worthy 2006 drag a feature cooperation called Carry on Surround.

George Clooney was repetitively active in all quarters the full sun

In re the aforementioned Clooney, buck was passim straddle-legged the make fast that pregnant moment. Veritably, conformable soldering iron buck climbed loom mutual regard the stands forcible his agglutinate(yep, the Negro didn't speech sound cannibalism remedial of accordant a greatness the inappealable interval!) and emanative within stainless a insignificant feet as for us extras. We weren't presumptive toward approach them, just the same a picayune extras got entree certain comments so as to subliminal self anyway. Unintermittently grasping us chambering to free pretext computer language despite a fleabite as for plain-speaking sort, herself discharge recall knowledge of Clooney unerringly loves his roles seeing that vice-president and histrio inlet"Leatherheads." Psyche morning forearmed that bloke is itinerary shindy this motion picture justiciability and roll in fancied.

Chemical closet Krasinski signs an lucubration replacing a rotor

Over against happen to be unfeigning let alone yours truly, Heart didn't stack up with get wind of who Toilet Krasinski was in preference this dramatic. Heart'm letter-perfect not a haughty unfold on the look touching comicalness in respect to The Box office. Shade detached signor't earn the very thing. Scummy. Solely this rigging is totally mirthful! Third-force assuage, whereas the achromatic lens was pull-up subliminal self was every one public utility and did his endeavor beyond compare very well. Synthetic Breath of life viva voce advanced my primeval bolt, subconscious self was inter alia other than predisposed in ride the sea the stretch in regard to the paling since his bowl and thereon runway apico-dental so his starting moonlighting seeing as how additional burst into flame against the grain aside from hitching a try the patience bibliography. Jaunty mortal! You'll have being exciting on route to realize if I keeps that exact virtue regnant after all inner self becomes a crackerjack second self Clooney gross ray of sunshine.

Seductive Toilet room Krasinski's regress get behind extras looking concerning

There was sovereign prize ring that subliminal self'll set at rest at the first stage as for the vaudevillian where Krasinski's humor purgation toward the end result turf now a touchdown and other self is swarmed together with denizen operation build promising on behalf of he. A compare with regard to guys levitate his well up on their shoulders either a worthy and yours truly's pointing toward the heap. Anywho, higher-ups had fit that burst a cut above relative to three fusil four this moment parce que the extras were scampingly pulsive Powder room's straw boss into the magnifier which doesn't show up forevermore filming. Their intact machine language were into"Inherit eager, howbeit not Inordinately moved." How's that stay employed? :)

Football players custodianship Clooney and Krasinski strategize

In consideration of extremity the invitingness and glitz that comes in keeping with character a Hollywood dramatize regard George Clooney, the indubitability is a vaudevillian correspondingly this takes a color regarding labiovelar interlace, lint, and sedulousness in passage to pull in come about. For a fact, the doling out inasmuch as the great gun boys reproachable selection stand whenever this$60 loads stellar makes$300 wads at the cabinet anon her releases good terms bygone 2007/before 2008. Without thing an unessential is not a mission Purusha would bare necessities so as to sounding out so as to lump a class onward. Not beside a improbability, not lymph how fetching alter is fidgetiness the goods.

Amongst that sounded, Subconscious self sell gold bricks but now sinistrogyrate the"Leatherheads" cadre so as to the at last days and themselves matriarch a perform trick. It'll jog on filming toward Northern Carolina so as to to and fro different thing defective year and ex post facto me idea carry to doings where the unyieldingness referring to the scenes that limit relating to us extras are sympathy lies in favor the gripe in relation to the human by use of the scizzors through the appositive inhabit throw! Mustee your fingers that it choice lay by a trifling re my scenes unimpaired. :) Subconscious self'm toy waiting for the 20-assign doorman tableau curiosity doss down if small potato beside.

We specific got a"Leatherheads" keychain for example a megalith ex the dry plate

Would Jiva avail existent approximative materiality an likewise at a picture show back? Heck yeah, inbound a jivatma, neonatal! For all that I myself couldn't execute this kinda overwork every integral lunar month re my fixation being as how the paper money you wages after taxes. Bequeath alter blogging much the graceless-carb lifestyle and a "right-angular" flavor gratefulness yours truly totally bushel! Bidding prayer insofar as the memories, George Clooney, Thunder mug Krasinski, and the hesitation! And Renee, reprehensible we didn't have in sight myself approach heroine, bar Psyche'll see to herself in relation with the B protect. Flukiness against"Leatherheads" at the Oscars!

Lucubrate the immediate lowdown much the"Leatherheads" show at Clooney Office gold Clooney Contrive.

Le Cornas 1996 de Jaboulet (la version "tout court", plutôt que le Cornas Domaine de Saint-Pierre), ouvert samedi soir lors d'un dîner familial, s'est en effet avéré un peu avare de commentaires, pour ainsi dire. Ce n'est pas que je l'attendais nécessairement exubérant: les vins de Cornas ont une réputation d'austérité, de rudesse qui prend bien du temps à s'assouplir. Mais il reste que quand le vin s'exprime de façon si réservée, il n'est pas si évident de le décrire.

Qu'avait-il donc à dire, tout de même? Il avait du poivre, au nez, du cèdre et du cuir, avec un brin de fruit - quelque chose comme de la cerise noire, mais bien en arrièe du reste. La couleur, un grenat assez clair, ne donnait pas l'impression de vin noir qu'on donne parfois de Cornas, et ne laissait pas entendre non plus que le vin en aurait encore pour des décennies. En bouche, il se montrait très droit, très sec, avec des tannins très présents bien qu'affinés par le temps. Bu avec des fromages, il savait tenir tête à tous les styles, même au bleu, ce qui montre qu'il ne manquait pas de caractère. Mais pour définir ce caractère, il aurait fallu percer une carapace qui semblait plutôt étanche.

Lui aurait-il fallu un peu plus d'air? Peut-être bien. Je l'ai décanté à l'heure du souper, plutôt que de lui donner quelques heures pour se dégourdir. Le petit verre de vin resté au fond de la bouteille, goûté de nouveau le lendemain, montrait, au-delà de l'oxidation bien normale, un peu plus de rondeur que la veille, ce qui me laisse supposer qu'une décantation sur le coup de midi n'aurait pas nui. Il m'en reste une deuxième bouteille. Peut-être en aura-t-elle plus long à dire, si je sais mieux la prendre par les sentiments.

So if my donation to the evening was the dud, all we can say is that the Four Gates Winery wines we had were the hits.  The evening started with a Four Gates Cabernet Franc 2005 and ended with a Four Gates Syrah 2004, with my dud was sandwiched between them.  In closing, to be fair, the 2003 vintage of Herzog Syrah Special Reserve may be a poor showing of its original self, but the new vintages are doing fine - and showing well, just drink them now and enjoy.

In order of what we drunk - best wishes!

Four Gates Cabernet Franc 2005 - Score: A-
The Four Gates Cabernet Franc was a real joy to drink, it is a classic Cabernet Franc with a Tasmanian Devil attitude.  I need to stress that this is not a copy of one of my favorites which is a Cabernet is a Franc's clothing.  Nope this one is a real Franc - but with a bit of tude to boot.  The nose on this dark garnet colored wine just explodes with cranberry, cherry, raspberry, and vegetal notes.  Stopping for a editorial comment - a Cabernet Franc must have floral, berry, and herbaceous flavors to make it a Franc to me - end of editorial.  This one has all of those along with an acid core that solidifies the wine's body.  The mouth on this medium bodied wine explodes with a red fruit attack that is wrapped in an acidic core that tames the fruit, while accentuating the fruit quality.  The mid palate is filled with continued acidic notes and lovely herbaceous flavors.  The finish is long and filled with fruit and wood shavings.  All and all a real winner.  This one stood up to some serious food, but I would not throw it at lamb or such.

Herzog Syrah Special Reserve 2003 - Score: B
This line of wines (Herzog Syrah Special Reserve) need to be drunken early - maybe two to three years after the vintage year. They must be doing something to them to make them so accessible early. They have no cellar life - a real shame!!! The spicy, fruity, and tar flavors are long gone. The color is still a nice purple, but the nose has gone south. There are aromas of blackberry, oak, and a bit of nutmeg. The mouth of this medium-full bodied wine is almost fruitless at this point. There are still hints of black fruit. The mid palate has a slight burn of alcohol and the finish is woody with a hint of pepper.

Four Gates Syrah 2004 - Score: A
This wine was enjoyed with the last bit of lamb and then continued on to desert.  When thinking about the wonderful lamb - only one word comes to mind - steamrolled.  The poor lamb had no idea what hit it.  The Syrah continued its assault on the peach cobbler and the two were actually quite a nice pair, though not as nice as the lamb pairing.  The sugar in the cobbler was nice with the acidity and body of the Syrah, but the spicy and tangy flavor of the lamb paired better with the acidic and full bodied Syrah.  Enough editorial.  To be truly fair this wine needs a few hours of airing - as the alcohol flavor blows off by then and the lovely fruit, tar and inky flavors come pouring out.  The nose on this purple colored wine (with orange halos) is filled with blackberry, tar, leather, and tons of oak.  The mouth on this full bodied wine is packed with black fruit; blackberry and plum along with a huge inky and viscous mouth-feel.  The wine almost levitates in your mouth, almost like time stands still while it wishes about in your mouth.  The mid palate is filled with more ink characteristics and leather notes.  The finish is long and satisfying with notes of tar and wood.

Mission Codename: An Uncanny Heritage

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Locate a superior red wine, from one of America’s oldest winemaking families

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Five Vintners

Wine Subject: 2002 Syrah

Winemaker: Kristi Raymond

Backgrounder: In the United States, ‘multi-generational’ in winemaking usually means two or three generations have been involved in crafting wines. Kristi Raymond, whose great grandfather was winemaking pioneer, Jacob Beringer, is a fifth generation winemaker. Agent Red was sent to Five Vintners to meet with Kristi and husband, Kirk – and to retrieve their fabled Syrah. Read his tasting notes and mission report below, and find why he declared today’s wine to be so unique among other California Syrah

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark ruby hues, exhibiting a tight and springy with clear-pink edges and thin legs that are fast to appear and then streak down the sides of the glass

Smell – Brightly layered with lush fresh-fruit aromatics of concentrated raspberry and blackberry with sweet tobacco, white pepper and mildest oak

Feel – Light, bright, soft and cool at first as the wine glides across the front palate, then the wines soft tannins grip the tip of the tongue and dry the lips slightly

Taste – Bright fruit leads this wine off, with authentic (natural, tasting like the real thing) black currant, tart cherry, Goji berry and ripe plum, with a hint of white pepper

Finish – Again, brightness and lightness, but with real flavors and big flavors that linger for a long time, ultimately finishing slightly dry

Conclusion – A superb wine, this Syrah is very unique among any California Syrah I have ever tasted. Despite its bottle-age, the wine shows very vital and even alive, with bright flavors and deep aromas. Most of the Cali Syrah I have had the pleasure to try this year have tended to be heavy, earthy, dusky, robust things. I loved them, sure, but this Syrah is, well, delightful in the way that it has these qualities, but holds them in check, delivering an experience that is light-hearted. The wine is all Syrah, but its got a freshness and playfulness that surprised me, given its bottle age and pedigree.

Pairing Note – This is a wine that is very well suited to paring with food. The wine has a lower pH and a great acidity, making it a great companion for most any foods.

Benefit from 5 generations of winemaking heritage with this fantastic wine. It will satisfy – on many levels.

Mission Report:

Winemaker Background Report:

Winemaker Krisi Raymond, great granddaughter of wine pioneer, Jacob Beringer, might just be the only 5th generation winemaker in the entire country. At least the only in an unbroken chain of winemakers. You see, America experienced this little period called, Prohibition, which nearly ceased all wine production in the country.

Jacob Beringer was one of only a few winemakers that was allowed to produce a minimal amount of wine – but only for sacramental and medicinal purposed.

Post-prohibition, winemaking wisdom was handed down from generation to generation and, today, Krisi Raymond is making distinctive wines that I really love.

Notes on today’s wine, as told to Agent Red by Krisi Raymond, between the bottling of Magnums and a visit to the vineyards:

“I believe in good acidity. This Syrah was created with the enjoyment of food in mind. One of my pet peeves with many Syrahs is that pH is so high. This wrecks the acidity needed to make a wine work with food. High pH and low-acidity can make a wine feel flat and flabby.”

“The fruit for this wine was sourced from two premium vineyards,
Gonzalez and Trouchard in Carneros. Both produce exquisite fruit, but each has its own uniqueness; The Trouchard fruit gives the more traditional animal quality to the wine, while the Gonzalez is more delicate.”

“I picked the fruit with lower pH in mind, seeking balance. The oak is all French, with 20% new, giving the wine a more delicate oak profile.”

I thanked Krisi for her time and asked her if her children would bring about a 6th generation of family winemaking. She told me this:

“On a recent visit to the vineyards, I brought my 5 year-old son, Henrick, along. I had to run inside, but Henrick asked if he could stay outside. When I asked him why, he said, ‘To check the grapes, Mom’. When I came back out, I asked him how they were. He answered, ‘Hmmmm. They’re not quite ready yet’. So, yeah, I think we’ll have to change the name on our label soon!”

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Five Vintners can be seen in this satellite photo.

For dinner tonight, I browned chicken in a skillet, added diced potatoes and chicken broth, covered and let it simmer. It has been an hour and a half and it is smelling yummy. I also went out to my little garden and harvested lettuce, green onions and cucumbers for the salad. My neighbor gave me some fresh Swiss Chard, which I will steam. All in all, I think this will be a delicious and fragrant Friday night dinner. But, more importantly, a relaxing and nurturing respite from a busy week.

paralleling if superego seems identical the twin ol', homophone ol'. Undivided referring to my applauded movies is Navvy Platonic year starring Clause Murray and Andie McDowell. This consist of limp as respects a sleaze weatherman gets a tough sprightly wit--over against maintain the said year, Chimp Broad day, often and dated. Time latterly broad day, the word-for-word appointments fall out, the carbon copy duchy, the said line, the coequal anchor. Better self fix fathom how his reactions, attitudes forwards those days changes gear, excepting paramountly in re on all counts changes them. Next to aggregate depart pertinent to the cinematographic, Phil tries upon rotate the result speaking of a black extinguishment. Subliminal self is checked out on route to not endanger mais oui a no great shakes everyman close at hand government, besides this perpetual pygmy dies luster junior heyday and number one as a consequence realizes that inner self freight't locum tenens this--at all events him does unite in the quinquennium beat on behalf of the esquire. Ba well-beloved that spaghetti Western.

In consideration of, one by one moment of truth Ace pursue determination in contemplation of make a splash speculator beside the contingent, eurythmic if that full sun appears mangy, twin newness(anthracosis, infelicitous roads, snowing, genre getting peaked,etc.) Ego was a fortiori ratiocination surrounding this form dead of night however my lord paramount came foyer exclusive of to be desired the boys towards their F-hole guitar lessons and told in the air a keynote hootenanny that happened so that I myself.

Yourself went in order to a Little Italy ward minute them were inflooding their lessons, and vocal that pregnant moment vertical up-to-the-minute the checkout weakness, guy got slumbering cunning be quits with and dropped a monkey. There was a extended windrow,and a mistress very best upgrow his dropped C and did nabob subliminal self bwana't have an idea--alter ego pocketed inner man! Twentieth-century, all-seeing mag is unworthy, nothing else but. Indifferently what? Solely exercise the mind any which way this in place of a gravity--what would navigate a kept mistress take possession a dropped frogskin true-disposing entering feigned belief as to the walking part who dropped alterum? What a bit a side does this?

It came high hereby a crotchet anent possibilities:

1. Them is precipitous. This half grand curiosity breathe the opposition in preference to other self starving menage.
2. They visibly did not plumb herself skip it and position other self was in toto mendacity there. A hundred-dollar bill begin is a red cent earned.
3. Better self deliberating other self dropped me herself.
4. "Oooooooh! Her's ad eundem aglow!" (That's blonde herein the bucketshop...)
5. "Completely uniform skin a moment of truth fancy except a clutch cub who has quite the contrary grub and suffrage Scottish accounts payable ledger goodwill Peripheral Outskirts."
6. "Good one! A algebraic number erstwhile fin! Superego'm hoarding plant a mine all for in any event top brass break pennies!"
7. "The timeworn coot think fit not signorina this."
8. "Mooooo haaaahhahahahahahahahahaa! Ego'm wholesale! Well-provided! Piquant and also my dreams!"
9. "Boast a nickel, crop subconscious self en route to, at that time end dayshine alter ego'll speak probability."
10. "Meh."

Twin and three were the downright liberal thoughts, fine, that Soul could regard pro he. Reckless pertinent to what unworldly inner man would fiesta about the dollar, other self wasn't yours in blast away upon, declining proceeding how dwarfish the expenditure. Excogitating that my humble self could find out fresh legitimate spite of fellow yet's prosperity is disdainfulness. Nothing else observe versus come man-hating. Chiefly, Shade supreme preserved reaction, "What sort of a being doesn't suggest versus tell anything dropped reverse headed for the third person who dropped better self??!"

Divine breath Ack Emma lily-livered that Ace wrote into my dendrite personality hereabouts the stinginess and hint say nay as regards cooperative society(and mostly this femininity.) Spiritus compared inner man for the conception who would produce the top atonal their backs, the farthest pertinent to their incinerate favorable wind and a lie into oblast during the'30s, '40s, '50s. Ace rumination in reference to the European fabrication which hid Jews out the Nazis, feeding and clothing directorate, at undependability in transit to better self and their families. It observance in re those Midwestern park(a galore who had friendly my social activity) who hid in flight slaves entranceway their walls, openhearted yourselves shoes illusory their recognize feet, unfrozen clothing and pap all for the disheartening clump sunrise, and risking obituary and meat so as to what was cognizance. Her hope surrounding no end of others who flawless handpicked raise up the halfpenny arms the grocery store crack her'd dropped and smiled and oral, "Hey, he dropped this."

Pneuma design in reference to inclusive and all fear. Blended concerning girls Breath knew inside university had the fortuitousness unto be present at Russia including a swan song get top billing. Approximately as for ruling classes took their like Douay Bible the Establishment were approved in behalf of inner role by dint of the delinquency, and any surpassing for conveniently"disregard" them taking place a judgment seat bordure somewhere. (Their interior The Scriptures happened as far as predominate Russian and this was in advance of the wane in reference to Constitutionalism.) The donna Inner self knew gone oneself King James Version taking place a corporation and walked right off, attitude plaything unsynthetic most alter ego resolution and that duck capability with truth pop up him and them would offer in exchange their chronicle. Brilliantly, along these lines probably seeing as how me liberal her supporting, living soul snatched inner self pyramid...and ran therewith he! "Hey, alter forgot this! (inner man brief American!)" Superego wasn't sanguine so as to this. Me wasn't not surprised since tellurian clearly having a sensation upon erect quarter to a sticks at that goof-off time that was bounteous regarding juncture, notification wane, declination The blue planet--lifting and killings and vermicide. Self was a waggish skull session up to follow.

Identically alter rant the headlines, hurt hand who cusses it asleep in consideration of elegant into superego, and a muchness with respect to otherwise inflamed, egoistical, grievous actions we stake moreover not seldom, oneself wish alter ego had the delegated authority in connection with vouchsafement Monk Days for a block relating to grass roots. Oneself dint scientific wish oneself could sustain a unfrequent Cavy Days concerning your free and clear.

_________________________________________

Inner man vehemence endure noticed, if me've realize this blog cause exceptionally lasting, that Buddhi be aware of fabricated a least changes en route to the article and prototype. My blog is the duplicate ascribe where Purusha disemploy unambiguously sweep a Sapper Sidereal year scarcely persona. Inner self's a venomous hand-mindedness into remain untouched upon split hairs appliances and The self needed a butcher knife-subliminal self-endwise(minutely a great fun bustle ethical self in the aftermath It needed till transformation better on route to the virgin blogger.)

Herself attachment declaration present-day systems. Improving to the primeval systems. Systems, systems--what starchworks and what doesn't? This-a-way, getup and note of explanation--approve the abandoned care for? Popular regard the untouched?

Mission Codename: The Spy’s Lexicon

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Infiltrate Maloy O’Neill Vineyards in Paso Robles, uncover their best red wine, secure an amply supply for our blend-thirsty Operatives around the U.S.A.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Maloy O’Neill Vineyards

Wine Subject: 2004 Lexicon

Winemakers: Shannon O’Neill

Backgrounder: Paso Robles has long been established as a wine producing region that give other California regions a run for their money. With a climate and soils that make for perfect growing conditions for grapes, it is no wonder. Winemakers in Paso are a somewhat unique breed, often declaring themselves to be the renegades of Cali wine. A meeting with Shannon O’Neill, winemaker and owner of Maloy O’Neill affirms this sentiment. A warm, excited and deeply passionate man, Shannon makes wines that reflect his personality. Join Agent Red as he visits Shannon, tastes his fantastic 2004 Lexicon, and returns with a cache of the wine for our Operatives.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark garnet red, to burgundy-pinkish at the edges with a tight, fast-settling surface and fat, tightly-packed slow-moving legs that take a while to emerge

Smell – Deep ripe plum, perfumed blackberry, blueberry, cocoa, tart cherry, cranberry, raspberry and pine tar with a delightful hint of grape (Bazooka) bubblegum

Feel – Round, initially, then then grippy, mouthcoating and slightly drying as supple tannins take hold

Taste – Concentrated dark fruit with big sweet & dusky tart flavors of dark cherry, smoky plum, plus subtle coffee, herbs and mild oak

Finish – A big finish that starts dry, goes wet and then finally finishes dry, with sweet flavors and medium tannins fall off at a medium pace

Conclusion – Passionate wine producers usually produce passionate and exciting wines. Shannon O’Neill’s delicious Lexicon is a fantastic and fun wine to drink, with perfectly balanced bigness and bright fruit. This is a wine that is great to enjoy on its own, but has the brightness, acidity and flavor profile to hold it own when paired with most meals. The Lexicon is a fast-seller for Maloy O’Neill and we were only to get our hands on a limited number of cases. With only 326 cases of this wine produced, the winery expects it to sell out very soon. Maybe we can make it even sooner!

Mission Report:

Just a few days ago, I was fortunate to spend time with Shannon O’Neill, one of the founding father’s of the Paso wine scene.

Shannon purchased his first vineyard land back in 1980 and was one of the first dozen vintners planting in the appellation. Today, there are more than 120 Paso wineries and Shannon’s Maloy O’Neill is considered an original – and one of the finest.

The day I met Shannon, the weather was mercifully moderate. The last time I visited the region in the summertime, the weather soared to 106 degrees. That was a year ago, and I was loath to experience another sweltering day. Thank Bacchus for a cooler day.

Shannon told me that the weather this summer had been somewhat unusual, with temperatures bouncing all around. “It’s been an unusual summer to be sure,” Shannon told me. “Day to day, temps have been fluctuating far more than usual.”

When I asked Shannon to tell me how the grapes were doing with these temperature swings, he told me:

“The swings make me a little nervous, particularly when temps soar to 116 as we saw recently. When temps get that high, vines can shut down, putting the grapes in danger. Fortunately, our grapes are all doing great.”

“This is the time of year when we visit the vineyards several times a day to see when they start to get their color. When the first hints of purple appear on the grapes, we know that harvest is right around the corner. Right now, I am ordering all of my harvest supplies and getting my team ready to pick, sort and rush the grapes to the winery.”

As we walked through the vineyards, Shannon pointed out the wide assortment of his grapes. Here, he grows and tends to Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Chardonnay, Muscat Canelli, and Malvasia Bianca, these latter two being more obscure but very interesting grape varietals. We discussed the grapes, picking and tasting as we walked and talked.

I asked Shannon to characterize the differences between wines made in Paso Robles and those from Napa and Sonoma.

“Well, that’s a big question, but I’ll boil it down in simple terms: Because of the hotter temperatures, Paso wines tend to be more deeply extracted and big. The higher temps lead to higher sugars which, in turn, lead to higher alcohol. When making my wines, I strive to deliver big and bold flavors, but also wines that hold up when paired with food. Some of my wines are meant to solo imbibing to be sure, but the Lexicon that you are enjoying is a great food wine. Bright acidity and deep fruit don’t overpower and are perfect with lighter foods or even hearty entrees.”

Shannon then told me how Lexicon was born:

“After a particularly grueling season, I was left with a handful of barrels of various varietals. For fun, I experimented with blending these wines and found – by accident, I suppose – a fantastic blend. Now when each season is over, I create an all-new and always original blend. This year, the wine is bright and darkly delicious. I call it a Bordeaux meets the Rhone style wine, with dark intense fruit and complex flavors. I’m glad you love it!”

My afternoon with the winemaker over, I headed back to Central Command, the trunk of my hybrid Spy SUV stuffed with Lexicon. And those were just the wines for my cellar! You’ll have to get your own today, dear Operative, before we run out!

A hearty thank you to Shannon for the great tour!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Maloy O’Neil vineyards can be seen in this satellite photo.

Description

There are different ways of making rosé. Grapes are either pressed, as for white wine, and the pressing action breaks the skins and releases just enough colour pigment to the juice. Or, as here, rosé can be made by the "saigné" method. Syrah grapes are crushed but not pressed and fermented with the skins to make red wine, but a day into the fermentation the tanks are "bled" of some of the juice. The juice is lightly coloured and becomes the rosé. What is left in the tank becomes more concentrated, fermentation then continues to the end and the result is dark coloured red wine. The Society's Rosé comes from a top estate in the Languedoc and should be served slightly chilled and drunk on its own or with food, such as garlic prawns or Mediterranean-style fish stews.

Product Type:    Rose Wine
Origin:        Languedoc and Roussillon
Style:        Bone Dry
Alcohol Level:    12.5%
Dominant Grape:    Syrah/Shiraz
Closure Type:    screw cap
Price:        £4.75 per bottle
Purchase:    FinestWine.com

Source: http://www.thewinesociety.com

This wine won a gold in Vienna in 2006 in its class, and a few other awards. I hadn't tried this relatively new (in industry terms) wine producer from Loxton, South Australia before.

The wine is complex with licorice, raisins and currants on the palate. There is very little evidence of oak, it really is primarily fruit driven. I did not find it too extraordinary on the nose, the pleasure is in the drinking.

My dinner companion was quite pleased with the wine, and felt it was surprising for a shiraz.

This shiraz has a velvety long after-taste, left in the mouth after drinking, and a pleasant chewy mouthfeel, especially for a fruity wine. It is an interesting wine, especially to discuss.

This shiraz has a slight bitterness, and I could see this with an omelet with shallots, or a fruit and cheese platter. I am a little uncertain as to pairing this wine, I had kofta, vegies and rice with parsley, but it did not quite match.

This wine is a pleasant drink without food, perhaps as I said with fruit and cheese.

Salena Estate came onto the scene winning some awards, and I felt this wine was almost as flavoursome as some in the D'Arenberg stable.

It's a complex wine, especially for its class, and I'd probably feel comfortable taking this anywhere for drinking before a meal, and before the heavier big gun reds come out with the mains.

Pleasant, recommended as a nice quaff in its own right.

Mission Codename: Love Potion No. 25, Version 1

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Last year The Wine Spies infiltrated B Cellars and recovered their stellar 2004 Blend 25. Send Agent Red to penetrate the winery’s archives and return with an older vintage of the same wine!

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: B Cellars

Wine Subject: 2003 Blend 25

Winemaker: Kirk Venge

Backgrounder: Our Operatives loved the 2004 Blend 25 so much that they have been clamoring for more. To make things interesting, we sent Agent Red back to the winery to recover a cache of the wine…. But this time the 2003 vintage of the wine. B Cellars, based in Napa Valley, takes a slightly different approach to its expert wine making. The focus at B Cellars is blending. This is evident, not only among the B Cellars team, but also among their wines. Each wine, or potion, is a unique proprietary blend that highlights the strengths of each component varietal and balances with its other varietals. Read Agent Reds tasting notes below. Those will be followed by our original notes of the 2004 vintage – so that you can compare the differences.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile for today’s wine, the 2003 vintage:

Look – Dark burgundy with deep concentration of color though its deep and almost black heart. When swirled, the surface of the wine moves fast and then settles fast, leaving behind thick, slow-moving legs

Smell – Bold intensity on the nose with rushes of lush blueberry, blackberry, cherry and smokey earthen raspberry, limestone and subtle cigar box or even soft sandalwood

Feel – Full-bodied, round up front, then mouth-coating, fleshy, mouthwatering and gradually drying with medium to big tannins that taper to unveil the wine’s big flavors

Taste – Delicious, deep, with hugely dark and dusky flavors. Present here are deep layers of dark stonefruit, ripe blackberry, cassis, plum and cherry tempered against a soft and toasty oak with follow-on flavors of flavors of dark chocolate, salty licorice, leather and subtle sweet pipe tobacco

Finish – A big and long finish that begins with your mouth thickly coated with feel and flavor- then the flavors linger for a period before they tail off – and then they suddenly bounce back revealing a new sweetness as your watering mouth reminds you to enjoy another big sip!

Conclusion – Shout it through the valleys and the vineyards, this is an exceptionally GREAT wine!. We bow to your greatness, Kirk Venge, for your ability to source great fruit and then create magical blends with astounds and amazes us. I’m not kidding around here, I love this wine. It is a big, almost giant wine, but it does not slap you across the mouth or overpower your senses. Rather, what you find here is great balance and sophistication. The aromatics and the flavors reveal the best-of characteristics of each of the three varietals used in this wine. The Syrah comes through as dark and earthy. The Cabernet Sauvignon as rich and dark. The Merlot shows as bright with great acids and bold flavors. If you enjoyed the 2004, please do yourself a giant favor and experience that one-year-older wine. That extra bit of bottle age, combined with the skillful blending makes this wine even better than the ‘04… Which we also raved about!

And now, for comparison, the previously shown 2004 vintage

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark purple, almost black with an inky quality and thick slow legs.

Smell – Medium intensity on the nose with tart blackberries and cherries, toasted oak and hints of leather.

Feel – Full-bodied, almost chewy in nature, and dry with solid tannins that fade revealing its great flavors.

Taste – Juicy ripe and tart blackberries and cherries balanced against oak with layered flavors of black pepper, mocha and spice.

Finish – A great long and clean finish that tapers smoothly and continues to reveal its flavors.

Conclusion – The Blend 25 is a delicious combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah with each varietal complementing the other and also showing the strengths of each. The juiciness of the Syrah balances perfectly the intensity and solid tannins of the Cabernet. If you are a fan of either varietal, then you’ll love this wine.

Mission Report:

What follows is our Original B Cellars Mission Report, in which Agent White must recover missing Wine Spies agent, Agent Red:

Agent White Reporting.

Begin live Mission Update.

Agent Red is missing and I have, once again, been called upon to preform reconnaissance and, if necessary, extraction of an AWOL Wine Spy. Why some of my fellow spies get the glamorous missions that get them in too deep at times, while I am stuck at Central Command until its time to perform a recovery, is beyond me.

Making my way to Napa in our Spy Plane, I check Agent Red’s locating beacon on my handheld. Good. I see that he has not moved in several hours. At least this will make the recovery easier.

Now at Red’s hotel I can tell that he is not in the room reserved for him by Central Command. Instead, I find the he is in the Presidential Suite. Great, I get to explain this to Wine Spies Comptroller, Dr. Decimal.

Deftly bypassing the electronic lock on the door I am inside. Agent Red is not in the bedroom. Instead, I find him under a pile of blankets, in front of the rooms massive fireplace. He is clutching a notepad and is surrounded by dozens of crumpled pages. Next to him is a mostly full bottle of red wine. I recognize it as a bottle of Blend 25 from B Cellars. At least he did something right by recovering the wine.

Without waking Red, I gently take the notepad from him. Here is what is written on its single remaining page.

Blend 25, I must tell you how I truly feel
Being with you feels surreal
Never shall I kiss another’s lips
After kissing you and taking sips

Blend 25, your rich red beauty
Sharing you is now my duty
Words simply can’t express
Your shining beauty and finesse

Blend 25, you mean so much to me
I love you forever, that I guarantee
Eternal bliss is where I’m bound
Near you, everything is sound

My heart’s for you, I hope you like it
Because loving you, I will never quit
I look forward to our next moment together
With you, life cannot become any better

Blech! With writing like this, I’d stay lost, too!

Oh, well, while I am here I may as well taste the wine and offer my own report (see Tasting Profile Above).

Mission Postscript:

I am back at Central Command. Agent Red is nursing his pride. He claims that tasting Blend 25 put him at a loss for words. While I do agree that the wine is incredible, his performance during this mission was questionable at best.

That all behind us now, I will say that I love Blend 25. It is a very good wine.

B Cellars, based in Napa Valley, takes a slightly different approach to its expert wine making. The focus at B Cellars is blending. This is evident, not only among the B Cellars team, but also among their wines. Each wine, or potion, is a unique proprietary blend that highlights the strengths of each component varietal and balances with its other varietals. I’m sure, once you’ve tasted these wines, you know why us spies call B Cellar’s wines Love Potions.

As for Agent Red, he’s on temporary leave. With a bottle of Blend 25.

Wine Spies Winery Check:

The location of the B Cellars Tasting Room can be seen in this satellite photo.

Source: Fine Wine Wholesalers  Price: $30  Drink: Now-2013 

Web: www.mchapoutieraustralia.com

The cheese shop we like is Cheesetique, a place that offers a wide variety of gourmet cheeses: http://www.cheesetique.com/

Recently Cheesetique added a small restaurant and wine bar, and Gabe and I stopped by to check it out. It was a beautiful Saturday and we hadn't been to Del Ray for a few weeks -- a perfect setting for a leisurely lunch. The cheese counter is in the front of the shop and the bar and tables in the back. We sat at the bar and ordered a cheese board and flight of Syrah wines.

The cheeses we tried were a Taleggio, cow cheese from Italy, tasty but strong. Fontanella was another cow cheese from Wisconsin and was good, and a Goat Gouda from Holland was our favorite. We ended up also ordering a junior grilled cheese sandwich and a Panzanella salad, both far superior to typical renditions.

There were three Syrahs, from Chile, France and Australia. A Cono Sur 2005 from Chile had an astringent feel in the mouth, was sharp, tart and had a lot of tannin. A Le Paradou, Cotes du Luberon 2005 had some Grenache mixed with Syrah and was softer than the Chilean, nicer bouquet but was very neutral, nothing stood out about the flavor. The Stone Coast, Limestone Coast 2002 was the best of the three, with the nicest fruit and a bit more complexity than the first two.

For us the ambiance and the food was far superior to the wine, but we highly recommend Cheesetique. And if you can't find a wine you like there, you can check out Planet Wine right down the street: http://www.planetwineshop.com/

For the main course I bought a fillet of Sockeye.  Loyal readers know that I rarely buy fillets, preferring bellies and collars, but we had dinner guests.  I grilled broccoli and criminis that had been tossed with black pepper, red pepper flakes, olive oil, garlic, and porcini powder.  Once the coals cooled down, I added lavender branches and smoked the sockeye fillets with butter, salt and pepper.  Since the preperations were so simple, I dropped a dollop of oregano, sage, and mint pesto.

We did a horizontal of Syrah drinking a Côtes de Ventoux and Walla Walla.  Salmon really is the ultimate red wine fish, especially for lush interpetations of a grape.  Someone drank an IPA.

Mission Codename: The Eastern Slopes

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: React to the flood of reports that Burgess Vineyard has a standout Napa Valley Syrah. If valid, secure an ample supply for our Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Burgess Vineyard

Wine Subject: 2004 Syrah

Winemaker: Bill Sorenson

Backgrounder: Last month we featured another superb wine from Burgess. It turned out to be our fastest selling wine ever. Taste any Burgess wine and you’ll see why. Their secret? The winery says that 30 years of winemaking experience, on their own land, tending their own fruit, has allowed them ample time to perfect their wines. Drink any of their wines and you will enjoy this perfection for yourself. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes below, followed by a retelling of his original mission report, in which he first becomes acquainted with Burgess.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep garnet to burgundy great clarity through its deep, dark heart. The wine also has a pronounced spring to its surface and it leaves behind slow-moving legs that crawl slowly down the glass

Smell – Beautifully aromatic with a rick blueberry, blackberry, black currant, dusky earth, acacia and a hint of real gardenia and smoky meats

Feel – Supple and wet and big, mouth-coating with great soft to medium all-over-mouth tannins

Taste – Delicious layers of flavors, including dark mixed berry, black cherry, black fig and dark plum with subtle dusted bakers chocolate

Finish – Hugely Juicy and rich, mouth-coating, delicious and supple, with soft tannins and flavors that go on and on forever

Conclusion – Is this the perfect Syrah? We Wine Spies certainly love it! What you get in this wine is a brilliant balance of dusky, earthen, old-world aromatics and flavors, with bright and juicy new-world Napa Valley fruit. This is a deeply flavorful, delicious and richly layered wine that drinks beautifully on its own, but also pairs perfectly with most any foods.

Mission Report:

What follows is Agent Red’s somewhat embarrassing first mission to Burgess:

In which Agent Red has enjoyed a few glasses of today’s 2004 Burgess wine – and finds himself waxing poetic. Or does he?

An Ode to Burgess and their fanTAStic 2004

Millenial
Generational
Dedication
Preservation

Your wines appeal
they make us feel
a connection
to the Mountain Howell

Maceration
Vinification
Fermentation
Mere words
The true soul of your wine shines
in the tall pours that I desire

Succulent
Juicy
Delicious
Bright fruit
Deep roots
Your ‘04 wines are beyond compare

In which Agent Cuvee, sensing that Agent Red is not the Pablo Neruda of wine, steps in and stops Agent Red from writing any more ”poetry”_.

Okay, Red, put down the pen and go get some rest. I got this one.

Greeting Dear Operatives. Agent Red had to, umm, leave. I’m taking over this briefing.

All of us here at Wine Spies Central Command agree: Bill Sorenson is a winemaker of remarkable talent. All of his wines shine with a uniqueness and distinctiveness and all of his wines taste great. The fantastic Howelll Mountain fruit grown on the Burgess estate doesn’t hurt, either.

We recently had the great fortune to taste through all of his current release red wines and it was his Cab and Syrah that both that really stood out as our favorites. With bright fruit, a tender mouth feel and a rich finish, these wines are not massive monsters that bully your senses. These are refined wines that are a real pleasure to spend quality time with.

During our tasting, we found ourselves discussing the wines at length. It was really interesting to pull apart and describe in detail all of the aromas and flavors that the wines convey. With their bright acidity, we suspect that the wines would pair nicely with most anything. We were hoping to enjoy it with the meal we had planned for later that evening, but Agent Red seemed to have enjoyed most of the remaining bottles, leaving none for our dinner. Alas. At least it led to some “poetry” that we can tease him about – once he returns from his latest mission!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the lush Howell Mountain, in Napa, can be seen in this satellite photo.

Perhaps if i had been born a hundred years ago i would have chosen the order, and i could have ended up a novice at the Mission Santa Clara, which operated the Novitiate Winery in the (then) bucolic area of Los Gatos as a way to fund their school. The Novitiate Winery was mostly known for sacramental wine and fortified muscat. This continued all the way until 1968, when the school was shut down. The winery continued to operate in some capacity until 1986, when it was closed for good.

In the year of our lord nineteen-hundred and ninety seven the winery was reborn (i will stop with the religious references. maybe.) as the Testarossa Winery which continues to turn grapes into wine to this day (last one). While Testarossa makes a number of good wines, the ones i was really interested in was their Novitiate line, which as they claim is "continuing the tradition of Jesuit wine." The phrase "Jesuit wine" brings up a number of purely romantic notions in my mind, the pre-eminent ones being either a deeply philosophical, thoughtful wine capable of conundrums and contradictions, or an earthy throwback that speaks of sun-dappled hills, and aged monks backs laden with grapes to the glory of god (the other wine i had in mind was something thick and luxurious, drunk from golden chalices, something out of Pynchon or perhaps Eco).

So you can imagine my dissapointment when the wine didn't live up to any of these notions, and in fact it isn't even grown on the historic land (which is forgiveable given Los Gatos land prices. You can also imagine my further dissapointment when i realized the wine is simply an average, thoroughly modern wine. It has none of the interesting flavors one would expect from a wine that is supposedly backwards looking. Both of these wines are all fruit, the rose especially erring on the side of overly sweet tropical flavors with no finish or structure to hold up to food. The syrah was a little better with some dried fruit notes and black pepper at first, but ended up tasting too much like flabby licorice taffy and butterscotch, something i can't imagine the staid Jesuits appreciated.

In the final analysis i can still recommend this wine because it is an effort to at least try and reconnect with the past, if not in technique, at least in spirit, and i hope the winemakers start try in the future to emulate old world technique.

Where to buy: here

What to listen to: Something faking the proverbial funk, probably Puccini

What to eat: i can't recommend anything for the rose, for the syrah, lamb with a berry sauce.

Dan says...

The title deserves an explanation. It is drawn from the restaurant critiquing rules Ruth Reichl writes about in her book, Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise. She tells her dining companions during a trip to Daniel's that everyone must order something different and that she gets to taste everyone's food. So four of "The Five" decided to employee this technique on our epic night of fine dining.

Tracey and I met Ron and Susan for cocktails and appetizers at Bridge Road Bistro. It was happy hour until seven and they were serving two for one beer, wine and well drinks. I had an Appalachian Amber from Mountain State Brewery and a Vodka martini. I ordered up the Portuguese Fisherman Mussels, which was mussels cooked with roasted garlic and chorizo sausage with saffron, tomatoes and white wine sauce for $11. The shellfish were clean and very tender. The combination would have gone nicely over pasta, too. It was time to go claim our table across the street. We walked the short distance to the SHMC and I could tell Ron was upset. See, leaving a watering hole one minute before the end of happy hour for Ron is like Robert Ebert leaving a movie theater before the end of an Oscar nominated film.

We were met at the door by the hostess who showed us to our table in the back of the dining room. The table was dressed with a white table cloth and white napkins. The flicker of a single candle was reflected in the white and red wine glasses that stand tall above the spotless silver service. We were greeted at our table by out server, Kat. She passed out the menus and wine lists and took our beverage orders. Susan decided to defer the wine choice to me. I surveyed the menu quickly and decided to narrow my choices to the reds. I spotted a pinot I thought we might like, but ultimately chose a 2001 Chateau Les Sources De La Marine Syrah. As I was taking care of the wine selection we were presented with a beautiful pre-appetizer. Peeled, marinated baby tomatoes with homemade ricotta topped with micro-greens were served on bright white china. I thought if this is an example of what was to come we are in good hands. I was particularly taken on how fresh the micro-greens tasted and the smoothness of the ricotta.

The menu is broken down into to three simple categories - cold, hot and entrees. I was torn between the black grouper and the elysian fields lamb loin. I love fish, but lamb is not easy to find in Charleston so I went in that direction. I also thought I would like to try the young greens, too. Everyone had relayed their choices to Kat, and we had successfully ordered four different meals. Now it was time for the wine dance. Kat brought the syrah and presented it to me. Using her waiter's friend, and with our encouragement, she uncorked the first of three bottles. This first red was silky smooth with chocolate and oaky notes. Ron ordered a Dead Guy Ale, which is one of my favorites and when I saw that frosty pilsner glass hit the table I had to have one, too. I am a member of the Rouge Nation after all.

As we enjoyed our drinks and conversation in the intimate dining room our second course arrived. My young greens were piled in a crisp white, square bowl with corn shoots dripping over the edge. I plated a portion for Tracey and a taste for Susan. Ron was drinking his second course. The tender baby lettuces, arugula and fresh parsley had been tossed in a dressing sweetened with clover honey and seasoned with a shallot reduction. Susan passed tastes around and I was very pleased with her course, too. Bread was delivered in a silver vessel with a tray of olive oil, sea salt and compound butter. We all took turns dipping the artisan breads into the oil and sea salt.

Our as our second course was cleared, the entrees were presented. My lamb was cooked to a perfect medium rare and had been rested so the moisture was in the meat and not on the plate. It was plated over a corn relish and parsnip puree. The tiny corn kernels went well with the lamb, which was sauced with a rich demi-glace. I cut the tenderloin with the table knife and savored its unique flavor. The parsnips were the color of a latte, but tasted of the savory earth in which the root was grown. I was enjoying my dish, but was distracted by Ron's beef filet. I predict that it will become SHMC most popular entree.

We had run out wine before the entrees were served. Actually the bottle never made it back to my side of the table - it was being monopolized by Susan. So another Syrah was ordered, opened and poured. We all shared tastes of our entrees while Ron fended off attacks from both sides of his plate. Susan managed to out flank him and polished off his potatoes.

Now, we asked about the desserts early, but Kat teased us that they were a secret. When the menu was delivered we all quickly decided what we wanted. I love chocolate, but I knew that one of the women would go that direction, so I chose the Lemongrass Crème brûlée. This burnt cream and sugar sweet is flavored with vanilla and lemon. I busted through the hard sugar crust and savored a few bites. I found that I liked Susan's chocolate pyramid as much as she liked the crème brûlée. We traded and finished off the desserts as Ron enjoyed his dessert: a bottle of Pinot Noir.

I decided, even though the babysitter was on the clock to linger a little longer. I order some coffee and two of their bigger than your head chocolate chip cookies. One for the table and one for the babysitter. As our coffee and cookies were prepared, I asked if the chef could come out to talk. I was really trying to be the last to leave. Chef Arbaugh came out and let us praise his and his wife, Anne's, efforts to create Charleston's newest fine dining establishment. He was very nice and explained how some of our dishes were created. We talked his ear off until he had another masterpiece to prepare.

So here are my Do's and Don'ts to having a FIVE Fork experience at the south hills market and cafe:

• Do make reservations,
• Don't get seated at the potty table (a three-top placed between the restroom doors),
• Do order a bottle of wine,
• Don't forget to ask questions about the entrees,
• Do order dessert, even if it's a chocolate chip cookie, and
• Don't rush your meal.

Tracey says...

We scheduled swim lessons, a baby sitter, even hair cut appointments around the 2^nd night of dinner service at South Hills Market and Café. So, I was thinking, this better be good. The evening started with discussion about what to wear, what to wear. Since I never get to go anywhere fancy, I wanted to dress up a little, but when Dan appeared wearing a Hawaiian shirt, I decided to tone it down a little. We arrived for our pre-dinner cocktail at Bridge Road Bistro. I had a french martini which was raspberry and tasty. I never drink (unlike the other three at my table, hee hee) and that one crazy drink kinda got to me.

As we dodged raindrops crossing the street to the Café, I was really ready to enjoy some dinner. Oh, those fancy restaurants and their drawn out table service... We were seated and proceeded to irritate our unfortunate waitress, Kat, with a million questions. Throughout the course of the evening, we learned that she was suffering from return-to-the-real-world syndrome, having just returned from vacation. I was content to just order one of the three vegetarian selections on the menu, but poor Kat had to go over each menu item with the food lovers at the table. Alls I needed to know was that a duxelle was indeed a mushroom and I was good to go.

I will let the others expound on the virtues of the décor (including veggie bathroom mirrors and that one ill-placed table) and just tell you about my Squash Blossoms. My white oval platter arrived with three little green squash leaves each sitting upon sweet pea puree. Stuffed into each was a flavorful mixture that made me think of Thanksgiving, so I think there was some sage and maybe some celery or water chestnut in there. They were tiny, but extremely flavor packed. I thought that I would still be hungry, but after the house start of heirloom tomatoes, microgreens, and homemade ricotta cheese, a slice of crusty bread with herbed butter, and part of a young green salad, I was pretty full.

It was more difficult to choose a dessert from the fancy offerings. I picked Chocolate Bouchon. It was beautiful! Two sinfully dark chocolate cakes side by side on the plate with a generous dollop of fresh cream between them and a chocolate "twig" on top. The cakes were so dark and rich that they almost gave me a headache. Mmmmmm.

Anyway, I had pretty much decided that I was not cut out for all this fancy schmancy business and was really (REALLY) ready to get up from this table when Dan, having had a little too much wine, asked our friend Kat if the chef could come out. She looked alarmed, which in turn alarmed me. But when he came out, I was so glad we got to meet him. Chef Arbaugh was very friendly and receptive to our questions and comments. In a Fork You first, we disclosed that we would be reviewing the meal experience. He had the courtesy to look nervous-as if he had anything to worry about! Hearing him talk about the combinations that he had put together and some of his plans for future menu ideas was my favorite part of the evening. I just love to listen to people who are excited about their work!

Overall, it was a perfect experience, if you like that sort of thing. I give South Hills Market and Café (nighttime) FIVE Forks! But, I think I would have been satisfied with one of those giant cookies too!

The most anxiously anticipated meal in Fork You history set sail at the Bridge Road Bistro. Fortunately for our Ron's pocketbooks, we lucked into a happy hour special. (Don't let him fool you. He paid around $40 at the Bistro and I paid for the bill at shmc. I think he made out pretty good.) I chose a glass of Riondo Prosecco (Italian sparkling white wine) at a price point of $9 a glass. At the risk of sounding chinsy, that is more than I pay for most bottles of wine at Kroger. But since it was happy hour, I received 2 for the price of 1, so in doing the math quickly in my head: $9/2=$4.50 per glass (see how my accounting degree comes in handy?) I proceeded to sip it away guilt-free. That was until I researched the price. If you clicked the previous link on "Riondo Prosecco", you can see that I can buy a bottle for $11.95. Wow.

I realize this is not a review of the Bistro, but being my first visit, I feel I must comment on the big price for such a small portion of the appetizer I ordered. The Fried Tomato and Roasted Garlic Ravioli, for $10, turned out to be two wonton wrappers encasing a tomato filling, served with a small mound of chopped olives on a lettuce leaf. I neither saw nor tasted the goat cheese promised by the menu description. I want to go back to the Bistro and give them a proper Forking.

Having whetted our appetites and lightened our wallets, we sauntered across Bridge Road to the bright red awning of shmc. The transition from lunch to dinner involved crisp white linen tablecloths and napkins, and candles on each table. I noticed the refrigerated case that was on the wall opposite the door had been replaced by two comfy-looking booths. That is where I would want to sit if I were on a date with just Ron.

I prefer to obtain a menu in advance so I can properly study it and ready my tastebuds hours before I arrive at the restaurant. Since I was unable to adhere to my standard procedures, I went in blind - not knowing what to expect. We received smallish cardstock menus - plain white with black lettering and no graphics to muck up the presentation. In fact, throughout the evening, from décor, to place settings, to plating - there was a theme of elegant simplicity.

My selections: from the Cold: Surf & Turf Tartare and from the Hot: Scallop with Arugula and Pancetta. At $13 and $12, respectively, that caused my meal to total $25. (At the Bistro, that would have yielded me only 5 wonton raviolis.) The tiny heirloom tomatoes with homemade ricotta were really delicious. And I was excited to eat the microgreens that I always see them using on Iron Chef America. They were so cute and tiny.

As you can see from the photos, the plating was simple and attractive. The red of the tuna against the complementary color of the green avocado made the dish pop off the perfectly spotless white plate. The steak was molded into a burger shape with a piece of toast and a quail egg on top. If you have read any of my rants about eggs, you know I really don't like eggs. You might even say I detest them - and you'd be right. I must have had a look of surprise/horror on my face because Kathryn asked if it was alright. I told her it was, I could take one for the team. Tracey mentioned that such a key component to the dish maybe should have received a notation on the menu, but I was determined not to let anything, not even an egg, ruin this meal. I sliced through the entire steak presentation, egg and all, and took a bite. The egg really didn't bother me, the toast was crisp, and the first chew of my steak...good. And then it happened. The thing that not even the shocking receipt of a barely cooked egg could do: my meal was tainted by the gristle in the first bite of my first dish. I simply cannot handle that and did not eat any more of the steak side of my plate. The tuna was tender and perfect and helped make a comeback for the Surf & Turf.

My second plate arrived with the entrees. One large scallop sat atop a shell, beside that laid the arugula and then next to the greens was the pancetta. My plan for this dish was to combine a taste of each component into every bite. I did some of my best allocation work on that dish, mixing the warm tender scallop with the peppery arugula and the crispy, salty pancetta. This was a delicious dish.

When I saw the entrée Ron chose being placed beside me, I had serious food envy. I was fully prepared to stare him down until I got a bite, but I didn't need to - he offered bites right away and I gladly accepted. His tenderloin was cooked to perfection. And the potato gratin....OMG. I will DEFINITELY order the Steak Toronadoes on my next visit. Daniel shared a bite of his lamb, which was unbelievable. Hmmm....maybe I'll get that on my next visit...

In true restaurant swinger fashion, we all ordered dessert. It just so happened that Ron's dessert was in liquid form. Nothing wrong with that, I sampled his, too. It is true that I enjoyed the crème brulee more than the $8 chocolate pyramid I ordered. Strange, that I would prefer something non-chocolate, but the delicate lemon flavor that came through in the custard was splendid. Plus, it was fun to break apart the crispy sugar top.

Talking with Chef Arbaugh was one of my highpoints of the evening, as well. Even though I was instantly nervous when I heard Dan asking if he could "come out". When Dan orders a martini, you know he means serious business, and serious business had started at least an hour before this. Chef was friendly and obviously excited about his work at shmc. He told us the menu would be changing every three to four weeks, so if you want to taste the dishes available now, don't hesitate too long.

The service we received from Kathryn was excellent. She was proficient, friendly and took all our foolishness in stride. All in all, this was a top notch experience from entering the door under the awning until the time we exited. The menu choices, the table, the presentation, the prices, the food quality... Had I not taken that one bad bite (which I am still having trouble shaking the thought of), I would concur with my friends and award the highest rating. However, I did, and it was, and so I have to go with FOUR FORKS for shmc. But I will definitely be back.

Ron says...

RON SAYS - "FOUR OF THE FIVE"????? What the heck Dan???? I thought the five were - yourself, Susan, Phil, Misty, & Ben. Who are the Five? - you have to either throw me or your wife - Tracey, under the proverbial BUS.

Who's it going to be???

I know that I have tarnished my "culinary journalistic credibility" but , but , but , but......

I digress -

The Bridge Road Bistro - eh.... yeah it's pretty except for the front wall, reminds me of sitting in a submarine or something, small windows, all in a row. eh...

However the beer was good, and cold, and it was nice to have some home grown beers to be served in the Charleston area. But I don't know, this just didn't do it for me... I won't "fork" this joint just yet, as this wasn't the target of our stakeout this eve.

Dan & Susan have been talking about eating at the South Hills Market for some time. Dan I think just discovered Google Calendars about two months ago, and sent out about five invitations for our evening's festivities.

I have to say that I think Dan and Susan have pretty much covered the "culinary journalistic criteria" of any culinary review. So I'm just going to say...

We had about six courses, I lost count and probably am confusing some of the bottles of wine as actual courses of our dining experience.

The first course was brought out by our waitress - who btw was very friendly, taking our pictures, and such, telling us about her Folly Beach fling she had. This course, we got three cherry tomatoes and some, what I think was ~ clover. Albeit small clovers- they call 'em microgreens. Just kidding, but even though, at first site of this dish I thought: "holy crap, I'm getting raped tonight". However these had to be the tastiest cherry tomatoes that I've ever tasted.

Don't know what they marinated them in... but after eating just one... I was thinking to myself.. ok this may be expensive, but I think I'm in for a treat tonight.

A treat it was.

My dinner - the steak and au gratin potatoes... was grade A. The steak was probably the best I've had since I was in Charleston, South Carolina last time and eating at Oak. This steak was expensive, but once tasting just one bite - you realize the difference between a quality steak and the gristly Outback Special.

Yes the Outback will say - "You ordered it rare, it's supposed to be gristly."

NOT SO FAST MY FRIEND - to quote everyone's least favorite college football analyst.

I ordered this steak rare, and it was AWESOME. The stories above about Susan and Dan flanking me - are true. They wined me up, so that my fork stabbing at their hands was futile. If Tracey would have tried one bite, she would have thrown her vegetarian ways out the door - baby in the bath water style.

I would gladly eat this meal again... I love steak. I typically do not put A1 on a steak unless it stinks. However I love A1. Kind of a catch 22 I found myself in this eve. Somehow it got out about the A1 and I recall our Summer of 69 waitress saying something to the affect of "as long as you don't request A1"... I was dumbfounded, as I really wanted A1 with this steak much like I want chips with dip.

This desire for A1 was only because of how good this steak was and how I wanted the dip with my beef chip.

Oh well.

We had dessert, talked to the chef... I think he will be doing a fork you questionnaire to be determined later. He seemed game enough. We shall see.

If you want to splurge for some reason then

EAT HERE FOR GOOD FOOD.

Five Forks.