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文學相對論/蔡珠兒vs.楊索:談食物

楊索(Sol)、蔡珠兒(Jewel)

Sol:飲食男女,談飲食就如男女,要肉搏上陣,出手即知有沒有,和你談飲食,我會冒汗。

Jewel:喂,不要說得那麼官能,飲食才不是赤條條,中間層層包裹,夾雜著很多建構,其實一點也不肉搏啦。

Sol:飲食體系龐大,也很私人性。我整個童年都吃高麗菜飯,吃到反胃,至今深惡痛絕。當高麗菜盛產,被農人打成菜土,我心情很複雜,既生血淚,又有復仇快感。

Jewel:可是我好愛啊,不知是風土或品種的關係,外國和香港的高麗菜,都是硬梆梆的,不生脆不清甜,我每次回台灣,都要大吃高麗菜,走的時候還要買一兩顆,塞在行李箱帶走。

Sol:紅蘿蔔是我生命中難堪的烙印。大約是八歲左右,有一晚,似乎是里長來家裡,通知大人小孩去鎮上某地方吃飯。我 記得飯前有人致詞,開動後,我夾了黑黑紅紅的一塊東西,這東西和五花肉一起紅燒,我多吃了兩塊。忽然,我發覺流露憐憫表情的一群人在圍觀,當下我幾乎噎住 了,並記住了吃下去的是紅蘿蔔,以及永遠不要被人同情。

Jewel:我小時候最厭惡破布子,整塊壓成餅的那種,我媽愛吃,我家每餐幾乎都有一碟,這東西死鹹,氣味帶臭,體色濁黃,惡形惡狀,像極了某種物體,我覺得猥瑣可憎。媽媽卻甘之如飴,沒它不能下飯,我完全不能理解。

說到同情,我也有一個經歷。小學高年級時,有陣子學校的鍋爐壞了,不能蒸便當,大家只好吃冷飯。我有一個要好的同學,就住在學校隔壁,只隔一道矮牆,家人 中午給她送飯,從牆頭遞來熱呼呼的便當。有一天早上,她叫我把便當給她,說順便幫我一起蒸。中午,我們跑到牆邊,那頭遞來兩個熱呼呼的便當。

打開便當,我嚇了一跳,以為拿錯了。昨晚裝下的,原本是寡淡無物的素炒飯,飯面只有零星的香菇和豆乾粒,現在卻紅綠油黃,蓋滿了菜,有香腸片,荷蘭豆,炒豬肝,還有一粒滷蛋。

我偷望旁邊的好友,她若無其事吃著便當,飯面也是紅綠油黃,和我一樣。菜,非常非常美味,我裝作沒事嚼著,喉嚨卻哽著很多東西。我覺得慌亂,害怕,有罪惡 感,家裡吃素,嚴禁沾葷腥,我卻破戒偷吃肉,是否會有惡報?我很感動,但更覺羞恥,這是好友的主意嗎?她家人給我添菜時,是否覺得我很可憐?這是同情還是 鄙視?

不管是哪樣,也不知是她還是我變了,那天之後,我們的友情,漸漸就淡了。

Sol:我小學五年級時,班上有個女生的媽媽,每天送來現做的便當,用厚布包著,一大一小,小的裝飯,大的裝菜。全班同學和導師,都圍著看當天的菜色,她卻很難為情。她媽媽從來沒讓我們失望,光一顆蛋就可以變出十幾種花樣。

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