Luis says it smells like vanilla cupcakes, but I say heaven smells like tomatoes and fresh basil.

We actually made this before tomatoes were deemed safe to eat. The inner Italian girl in me just couldn't bear to be without my pomodori, so in defiance of the FDA, I continued to eat them despite the warnings. (No, I'm not really italiana...I only aspire to live la dolce vita.) The tomatoes we buy are locally-grown in a nearby farm or from our own garden, though. By the way, I do not recommend that anyone ignore FDA warnings. That's not a sensible thing to do. But when it comes to tomatoes in the summertime, I lose my sense of logic.

Before we get to the recipe, I need to throw myself at your feet and plead with you. I beg you, please use perfect, sunkissed tomatoes from a farmer's market or your own backyard. At the very least, use the ones still on the vine. This recipe originates from the island of Capri, where the tomatoes and basil are fragrant and full of flavor, so I'm told. Insalata Caprese is only as good as the ingredients, and I swear to you that if you take the time to find the best, you'll fall in love with this beautiful summer salad.

Rustic Insalata Caprese

Serves four.

• 4 five-ounce balls of buffalo mozzarella
• 2 handfuls of mixed ripe tomatoes, different shapes and sizes
• white of 1 spring onion
• 2 tbsp (plus more for drizzling) extra virgin olive oil
• 1 to 2 tbsp herb vinegar
• big handful of fresh basil leaves
• sea salt
• freshly ground black pepper

Let's cook

Cook one:

1. Make the basil dressing. Keep a few basil leaves aside for later, and chop up the rest. Use a pestle and mortar to mash it up, add a pinch of salt, mash some more.
2. Add about two tablespoons of the oil, and mash it all again.

Cook two:

1. Tear the moz into bite-sized pieces. Throw onto a serving plate.
2. Roughly chop the tomatoes and finely slice the onion. Add to serving plate.

Both cooks:

1. Drizzle some olive oil and herb vinegar on top.
2. Salt and pepper to taste.
3. Add the basil sauce, and toss to coat.
4. Arrange reserved basil leaves on top.
5. Serve with a country loaf and a pinot noir

And here's Luis eating a traditional, sliced Insalata Caprese in a Florence trattoria.

I'm on my third mini-cup, and the sugar at the bottom is awaiting its last rites. My grocery store adventure is halfway through, and I'm taking a moment to loiter at the station where free coffee and free samples await.

Everyone has their own Trader Joe's routine, and mine fits me like an old glove.  I start with the organic fruits.  Then I pick up some veggies and bread.  Ooops, don't forget about the pre-packaged celery sticks and peanut butter.  Now off to the organic yogurt and soy milk.  And that's just Aisle 1.

Truth be told, my New Delhi grocery adventures were never quite the same.  That's not New Delhi's fault.  I hated my kitchen, so I never used it.  I hated my flat, so I spent little time eating in it.  Grocery stores had plenty of options, but if you aren't cooking, you are missing out.

But now that I'm back, my bay area palate is re-emerging.  True, there'll be no more idlis and sambar for 40 rupees ($1).  And the day of the $3 thali is over.  But mmm-mmmm, that polenta smells good as I cook it up on my old apartment stovetop.  And the mozzarella slices with basil and tomato?  It is fun to try making insalata caprese at home.

As I leave Trader Joe's and enter the parking lot, another San Francisco day greets me.  Sunny blue skies with a cold wind.  And it occurs to me that the City is slowly taking me back in her arms.  And planting a flirty kiss on my cheek.

City Market - Burlington Vermont

Pesto Chicken Sandwich - City Market

Choice of Klingers bread (I chose wheat), mesclun greens, fresh tomatoes, pesto (both sides of bread), grilled chicken (cold), fresh mozzarella. The pesto chicken sandwich is like an insalata caprese, with added chicken in a sandwich form. Everything is very fresh, there is a  nice balance of texture, the chicken breast has nice diamond grill marks, and has been run through a deli slicer? as it's nice and thin.

I personally find insalata caprese to be a little bland, and just like the salad I found this sandwich a little lacking in flavor. Maybe some acid would help (balsamic dressing, dried cranberries?). On the positive side, this sandwich is massive, you could easily split it with a friend, and nosh on some of the plethora of baked goods from area bakers or some of the bulk goods as I did.

City Market - Dried Turkish Apricot Bulk Bin

I chose dried Turkish apricots, one of my favorite natural snacks; I think apricots are much better dried than fresh.

The sandwich was $7.50 before tax, a good deal, I'll be back to try City Market's other sandwiches (their sandwich counter is in the baked goods end of the store).

The dried apricots are $3.99 a pound.

For those who don't know, Insalata Caprese is a salad of tomato, mozzarella di bufala, basil, and olive oil (literally translated - 'Capri salad' - Capri is an Italian island) . As the aforementioned tradition goes, sun dried tomatoes and vinegar have no place in this dish, but I added them because I am the executive chef of my kitchen and could throw in a piece of watermelon and top it with chocolate frosting if I dang well pleased. Haha. Plus the only recipes I could find were kind of boring, sticking to it's 4 main ingredients.

So! I made my own.

The wine that I paired with this dish was inspired by our new friends Nick and Sarah over at www.bordeaux-undiscovered.co.uk. It was a white Bordeaux from the Chateau Tour de Mirambeau Reserve 05' produced by Despangne. I'll be reviewing it and giving tasting notes in the next 'This week in wine' entry.

De-licious.

-Johnny

Insalata caprese, or salad in the style of Capri, should not be made unless you have the best fresh tomatoes you can find. We only prepare it in the summer, unless we are fortunate enough to have some great tomatoes brough to us from Florida in the winter. You need fresh mozzarella and fresh basil. No dried basil allowed. No supermarket "Kraft" mozzarella allowed. I think it's against the law. Anyway, layer slices of tomatoes on a plate overlapping each with slice of mozzarella and a basil leaf. Drizzle with good quality olive oil and sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper. Delicioso! This can be made on a serving plate or prepared on individual salad plates. It can also be prepared with a plate of sliced tomatoes having scattered chunks of basil and mozzarella over the top. This can be a lifesaver if you don't have enough mozzarella for distinct slices between each slice of tomato, or if your basil leaves are few in number.

An antipasto platter can consist of much the same ingredients as Nicoise salad: tuna, tomatoes, olives. But there are other ingredients that can be added as well. When we prepare it, we make sure to have bocconcini (bite-size balls of mozzarella made with small melon ball cutter and fresh mozzarella) or at least small pieces of mozzarella, marinated artichoke hearts, and roasted red pepper bites. Don't forget to get some thinly sliced hard salami. It needs to be thinly sliced in order to roll it up tightly, somewhere between a toothpick and a pencil. Try to find a container of mixed olives, black, purple, green. Maybe get some oil-cured olives. They are so different in taste, and appearance, from the everyday olives. If you've never had oil-cured olives, get ready for a new taste sensation.

I'll just make a list of ingredients and you can use whichever ones you want. The more the merrier! Everything is optional, just use the combination you like best or happen to have on hand. It can be served on a bed of lettuce but that is certainly not mandatory.

Antipasto Platter

Olives (black, green, purple, oil-cured or a combination)
Pepperoncini
Hard salami, thinly sliced and rolled up tightly, or Genoa salami*
Marinated mushrooms
Marinated artichoke hearts
Roasted red peppers, cut in bite-size chunks or sliced
Tuna, preferable Italian in olive oil, but any will do in a pinch, save the oil if you want for drizzling
Mozzarella, in cubes or balls**
Cherry tomatoes, or Roma tomatoes cut in wedges
Vinaigrette
Leaf lettuce

*Try adding or substituting prosciutto or mortadella
**For something different, instead of mozzarella, shave off some slices from a hunk of Parmesan or cube some Asiago cheese.

Use a large platter or a few small ones if you are serving a lot of people on one big table. Line the platter(s) with lettuce if desired. Keep a hole in the middle for a small bowl for the tuna. Surround the tuna with all the other ingredients, keeping each ingredient in one place if you want to mixing them around the platter. I like to keep each ingredient separate. Drizzle the oil from the tuna over all or use your favorite vinaigrette for drizzling or nothing at all. Good crusty bread is perfect for sopping up any leftover oil or vinaigrette on the plate.

Insalata Caprese (mozzarella, tomato and basil plate)

1/2 pound fresh mozarella cheese, sliced or diced
2 large vine ripe tomatoes, sliced
1 cup fresh basil leaves, crushed
salt and pepper
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

*layer tomato and cheese. top with basil and olive oil. add salt and pepper to taste.
*use fresh cow's milk mozzarella or fior di latte.