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Natural Flea Control

simplestewardship — Fri, 25 Jul 2008 18:36:32 +0000

Did you know....

fleas spend only 10% of their time on your pet
the average flea lives 2-3 years
one female flea can lay 1 million eggs in that 2-3 years
eggs can live unhatched in your carpet for a year until the right environment occurs for hatching
bark dust, wood piles, and ivy are ideal places for fleas to survive during the winter
adult fleas prefer to feed on pets rather than people because pets are closer to the ground and have warmer body temperatures
flea eggs are not destroyed by extremes in temperatures or pesticides
fleas can transmit Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever
fleas can transmit tapeworms and heart worms
for every one flea on your pet, there could be 100 in the nearby environment

Here's a quick home test to see if your pet has fleas: lay out a piece of butcher paper and groom your pet for a few minutes as they stand on the paper. Do you see any black, comma-shaped things? If so, put a drop of water on it. If its flea feces it will turn pink (from your pet's blood - yuck!)

Okay, now that we've covered the scary stuff, how do we deal with fleas in a natural, non-toxic, non-chemical way? A wise pet owner starts to prepare as soon as the ice melts, the flowers bloom and the temperatures warm. Preparation can ward off an infestation. Fleas and ticks are not as tough as you might think. Most people invite fleas and ticks into their homes by creating a pest friendly environment. If your dog has a flea problem, it is pointless to treat just your pet. You have to treat his environment, too, including your home, your yard and even your car if your pet travels with you around town.

Let's look at some basics. When we're out walking our dogs, where do they go when they "have to go?" to trees and shrubs. Many times grass, weeds and other types of flora are not trimmed around trees and especially under shrubs. Fleas and ticks love tall grass because its just a hop, skip and a jump to the next animal that happens along. Keep grass trimmed close in the areas your dog frequents on his potty stops and keep him away from lawns that don't trim under trees and shrubs.

There are no shortcuts to preventing flea and tick infestations. It's all about cleanliness, vigilance, and making the right choices. Let's talk garbage. Your open or dirty trash receptacles are a tempting feast to birds and other dogs. Both can be infested with fleas and ticks. Keep garbags cans clean inside and out and keep trash picked up. Bird feeders should be placed in areas away from where your pet eats and drinks or exercises.

Dog houses, concrete pet runs and containment areas can become havens for all kinds of bacteria, pests and disease. Unless you have specific need for such areas, do without them. They require massive amounts of upkeep and cleaning.

Now for inside the house. Good housekeeping can be extremely effective in the war against fleas. Water is a breeding ground for fleas. Make sure all leaky pipes are properly repaired. Natural pesticides such as bay leaves, coriander, dill, lemon peel or clove in pantry shelves or stored in grain can be effective in keeping fleas away. Frequent vacuuming (my downfall - I HATE to vacuum) will remove flea eggs, pupae and the flea droppings used by larvae for food. Sprinkle flea powder on the carpet and let it work for a couple of hours (remove your pet first) and them vacuum and add a piece of a flea collar to each new bag to prevent fleas from completing their life cycle inside your machine. Vacuuming every day is essential if you don't want to use chemicals. Occasional carpet shampooing (not dry-chemical cleaning) will suffocate the little buggers. Getting rid of carpet altogether helps a lot. For non-carpeted floors, mopping with soap and mild bleach water is quite effective.

Now that we've discussed environment, how about your pets themselves? There are lots of alternatives. Flea powders kill only adult fleas and have to be reapplied every week. They can tend to make your pet uncomfortable and can make pet asthma worse. Flea sprays vary. Most are alcohol-based which kills adult and pre-adult stages. Some contain a growth regulator that will kill eggs as well. If you use a spray, find one that is as organic as possible. Flea collars are only minimally effective and can be toxic. Ultrasonic collars can be ineffective and can cause hearing problems in your pet. Dips are highly toxic and can cause cancer. Spot-on products range from very toxic to not so much - you have to do the research. Look for one that does not contain organophosphates. Oral products are administered once a month. Flea shampoos can provide temporary relief and are good for getting rid of flea feces on the skin.

Here are some natural remedies that should be part of your arsenal. Cut up a lemon, allow it to sit in a spray bottle overnight and then spray liberally on your dog, avoided the eyes. Spray behind his ears and in his environment. When you wash your pet's bedding, add a small amount of eucalyptus oil to the final rinse to help keep the little varmints away. Salt kills fleas. Apply a thin layer to your floor, carpet and furniture, then vacuum. Use lavender in your dog's bath. use a natural soap that contains citronella and tea tree oils. The citronella helps ward off pests and the tea tree sooths irritated flea-bitten skin. Add brewer's yeast and garlic to your pet's diet. (Check out the Flea Fighter treats at www.naturalbarker.com/). Neither of these actually kills fleas, but they make your dog taste bad to the flea and will deter them. Scientific studies show a 20% decrease in flea numbers with the use of brewer's yeast and garlic.

So, there you have it. Just a few suggestions to help make your pet's summer and your life a little less stressful. Hope it helps.

Keep it simple,

Sherry

Good News/Bad News

pueblowestrealestate — Fri, 25 Jul 2008 14:59:09 +0000

First the bad news. Fleas found on a rabbit on the north side of Pueblo West have tested positive for plague. This is not unusual. Prairie dogs in Pueblo West have tested positive for plague in the past. Health officials suggest that you DO NOT touch dead animals or Pueblo West rodents. Spray on insect repellent and wear clothing so that you are protected from flea bites. Dust your pets with flea powder. Remove plants and materials near the outside of your house that could become breeding/feeding grounds for rodents. If you or your pet are not feeling well, especially if a high fever exists, bring your pet to your local vet or bring yourself to your doctor.

Next, the good news. Our local farmer's market is up and running every Thursday from 7:30am to 1:00pm on McCulloch, Cheers Plaza. Last week, I purchased some absolutely fabulous apricots and some peach-jalapeno jam that is now completely gone. Delicious!

Deb

Mr. Dignity, by Lisa Harmon

greatdaneservicedog — Mon, 21 Jul 2008 14:38:51 +0000

Sir Speedy stretching his legs, Kenai 28 wks old. The cute little toddles is a big boy now.

My trip to the puppy store Thursday paid off, and I'm glad I bit the bullet and went. I've been sick as a dog (pun!) all week, more miserable than I've been in years. Very glad I went though. The Frontline Plus and flea spray seems to have vanquished the nasty little buggers that hitched a ride home from obedience class with us. I hate those darn things. Ticks you can pull but fleas jump. Grrrr.

And the tip a friend gave me about Eagle Pack Lamb and Rice being the only formula that didn't give their dogs loose stools also panned out. Both the boys love the taste, and Kenai's stools are FINALLY normal. I just have to watch their growth, since I want to slow it down and the Lamb formula has a fairly high calcium content. I've restarted the MSM supplement to control it.

BB lost considerable weight from his ordeal, but he would eat the whole bag of Eagle Lamb if I let him. So he should pack it back on now that he's home. The bag says 4 1/2 cups a day for a 100 pound dog. Right. It's an adult formula, and these are growing puppies. They'll get a little more than that. But I do like feeding them lower amounts, since it stretches out the pricey bag.

If 5 cups a day isn't enough to keep them from getting hungry, I'll throw in some oatmeal. Vets say to use rice or potatoes, even pasta. But that's all starch and they put on fat from it. I want to keep them lean, so rice defeats my purpose. Oatmeal is my preferred additive to keep the hungries away.

Kenai didn't get to play at the puppy store Thursday, since I needed him to be calm and obedient. He wore his vest and gentle leader. The sinus infection my neice brought with her last weekend moved into my nose, and it set of a migraine storm/fibro flare of biblical proportions. That pic of Kenai was one of the mere 3 play times he had all week long. I even slept on the couch one night because I was afraid of falling on the stairs to our bedroom.

For all his boredom, Kenai behaved most gracefully. I can't fault him for a little whining and restlessness. Saturday I was feeling a bit better after some muscle relaxants, and we did some playing inside. And yesterday morning was good, too. So into the car we went. I bought a big bag of Eagle, and a couple interesting toys for little brother BB who is stuck on bed rest. Then it was time for lunch out.

The restaurant was packed, loud and busy. Big test of puppy composure. Our back booths were taken, so Kenai had to do a down stay right in the middle of the place, with people coming and going all around him. His tendency to take up the walkway needed some reminding to move in, but he kept his large self mostly out of the way. He did very well just laying there for about 30 minutes! Crying children, clanging dishes, loud voices, people walking by from all directions...

Yay!!!! That's my big butt boy!

After 30 minutes he was getting restless, his legs sore from the hard floor (darn growing pains), and just wanting to get up. He made it another 20 minutes until we were finished eating, though he was getting up and had to be returned to down stays 3-4 times. The place was clearing out, and almost empty when we finished. I don't expect "perfect" from him, though I keep in mind what we need to practice and polish up.

My boy's doing good in his training. Maturity and practice will put the finishing touches on his performance. One thing I do need to consider is Kenai's desire to keep an eye on who is near me. When I feel really ill and fragile, Kenai will do his sit stay at the counter facing backwards. He's not reactive, he just wants to be able to see who is near. He'll wag his tail at them, but won't turn his back.

I've tried several times to turn him around, and the smart little stink decides he'll do a down/stay in front of me when I'm at the counter, that way he can still see. Uugh. Stubborn boy. He can tell when I'm weak, and wants to be on sentry duty. He maintains his dignity and gentleness, but I'm wondering what will happen someday if an agressive dog or person gets too close.

We've had a couple incidences with a snarly dog that focused on him, and it will make Kenai step back a bit. But once it was directed at me, while I stood and chatted with someone, and he got right up against me, with most of his body sheilding me. His tail came out from its hiding place and his head came up. The little dog backed off, but someday one might not.

That's normal, for dogs to protect their "pack", especially Danes with such a very strong social bond with their humans. But it could get us in trouble as a service dog team. He cannot ever, ever, growl or bite as a service dog. He hasn't tried, but under the right circumstances, any dog will. In a way, it is comforting to know that Kenai would protect me, but then again, it is a concern. I keep that in mind when dogs or people approach us that seem a bit unstable.

I watched a dog whisperer show where he dealt with walking your dog around unleashed dogs. I know the "technique", and have a couple times used it in my life, but some days my ability to project a calm and assertive energy is not so good. Those are the days I am concerned that Kenai will take it upon himself to deal with a situation. The burden is upon me, to be aware and capable. I don't want to let Kenai down about it. I hope I don't, and I'll try not to.

My rhino baby isn't so little anymore. He's moved out of the "all puppy" stage of life, and into that transition between mature and immature. Sometimes he is downright majestic, calm and very adult. Then we have bursts of "goober puppy", with zoomies, snuggies, and funnies. Then it's back to Mr. Dignity. We've gone from glimpses of the adult Kenai admist the playful puppy, to glimpses of the playful puppy admist the growing up boy.

I still have a few months before adolescence hits, in all it's unnuetered glory. I've got a little time to get my legs steady again, thank God! We've come a long way, me and Kenai. We've gone through alot together already. My friend with the brand new Dane puppy has made me notice just how grown up the toffee tank has become. The tiny toddles that followed me around now has a long lope! (And a mind of his own!)

He's really a remarkable young fellow, so patient as I work out the kinks of how to train a service dog from the ground up with all my limitations. He's become a stunningly beautiful dog, too. We get stopped constantly to be told how he was seen across a parking lot, or they just had to come and say what a magnificent dog he is, or how well behaved he is.

If they only knew the blood sweat and tears! There are days that a compliment makes it worth the effort, so thanks and good wishes to everyone that goes out of their way to encourage a service dog handler!

A note about BB--he's doing better, and eating like a horse. All his poops are loose enough to come right out and his suture lines are closed. No problems now, and we'll get him back on track with his PT as soon as he's off bed rest and the staples are out. Keeping him quiet for the week will be the biggest problem.

I'm just glad to have my little four pack back together. Everybody's home where they belong. Now if we could just get rid of the intruders...

"Fish and houseguests start to stink after a week", --an unknown but wise soul

Fleas - How to treat naturally

Thinking Woman — Sat, 19 Jul 2008 18:26:39 +0000

A long time ago, when I was a different person and I had different cats, I dealt with fleas for the first time. In those days, while the idea of using toxic chemicals bothered me, I felt that there was a need for them. So I used toxic shampoos that caused my poor sweet furry friends to foam at the mouth and seriously scary bombs that spread poison into every nook and cranny of my house.

Did this work? Well, yes, and no. At first, there were no fleas. But then, suddenly, they were all back and with a vengeance. Super fleas! It was impossible to set foot indoors at all. And so began a cycle of frequent vet visits that were traumatic for my cats and more toxic bombing. The whole summer went on like this until we gave up and moved.

So when we noticed the cats scratching this year, I immediately called the non-toxic bug service. I was shocked and horrified when I found out that they were not going to help. I was told to not even bother with natural methods because they just don't work. I was advised to go straight to the vet to get prescription drugs as they are the only thing that does actually work. Time would show every single vet in town taking advantage of this years flea epidemic as they all have huge signs out regarding the flea situation and recommending drugs for the poor innocent cats and dogs and other innocent furry friends.

I admit in a moment of weakness and flashback to my previous experience, I did consider taking that route. Luckily, fate and logic intervened (it was after hours) and so my resesarch began. I found great articles right away on the Only Natural Pet Store website and I did buy a few products from them. They highly recommend diatomeceous earth, and they have a form that is much safer than what you'd find in any garden supply store. This I sprinkled lightly on my cats and generously on my flooring. I swept it into the carpets so it would suffocate tiny fleas. I also combed my cats with a flea comb and dropped the fleas I found directly into the toilet, and flushed.

My older daughter in particular eventually developed a serious rash from the bites, which she must love picking. She is now wearing cotton knee length socks all the time, even while she is sleeping, and putting Rescue Remedy cream on the bites at least twice a day. The rash looks much better, especially below the sock line!

We all try to remember to put strong smelling essential oils on our feet and calves when the fleas are biting - peppermint and tea tree oil are my favorites. I've tried putting this on the cats but they really hate it. Besides, it is not the cats that host the fleas most of the time; my understanding is the fleas live most of the time in other places. There, they relax and lay eggs. Sometimes when we comb the cats, we find almost no fleas, or one cat seems free and clear and the other not. Apparently, the cats visit a "flea bus stop" and get loaded up again. Where that bus stop is in our house, we are not sure!

Every few days, we vacuum all the carpets and then put the vacuum cleaner bag in a plastic bag and put that in the freezer. That way, any newly hatched fleas will die.

Two ideas I have yet to implement are to use beneficial nemetodes outside and also spread diatameceous earth all over the yard. The nematodes will eat harmful insects. It is important to buy ones that are for your area. A research university might be the first place to go for information on which ones you'd need. I have noticed the squirrels stopping to scratch so I know I need to do this. Even though our cats are indoors only, the fleas are probably jumping in the door or catching a ride on a human bus or maybe they come in on other things? I am not sure how that works. But I am sure the squirrels and other creatures would appreciate a break from the itchies.

Here is an interesting tidbit. We have been dealing with this for at least two months. So has everyone else in town. When I talk to other families, at least the ones who are honest, I learn that the mainstream drugs are not working any better than what we are doing! I know from my research how horrible these chemicals are for the pets (and people too) and how they beat down the immune system, thereby excaserbating the problem as fleas like a weakened host. That makes it easier for them to penetrate the skin and get their meal of fresh blood.

Our experience this year is nothing compared to what I dealt with years ago. Yes, the fleas are annoying, particularly to the poor cats. But they have never reached epidemic numbers. It is sort of like when the first mosquitos start biting but you're still having a great time and stay outside for another hour. Still, the battle has never consistently swung in our favor. About two weeks ago, I read the label of a pest control product I had kicking around and saw it was for fleas so I sprayed it all over the carpets and it does seem to have helped a lot! It is Orange Guard and the key ingredient is d-Limonene (orange peel extract) so that seems okay. I bought it from a reputable source.

I hope to have great news to post soon on this situation, but for now, we are resigned to just fight the good and slow fight and not add to our bodies unavoidable toxic chemical load.

Collars Best For Poodles

healthacare — Sat, 19 Jul 2008 15:48:19 +0000

Poodles come in many colors and size - so do dog collars. There are many different types of collars a dog owner may choose from. Each one vary from another in terms of color, size and type. When you are out to shop for collars intended for your Poodles, you have to make sure that what you chose is appropriate for these proud dogs.

An owner may choose a collar that looks good around the neck of his pet. But this should not be the primary factor in choosing a perfect collar for there are more important things than just pleasing appearance. Safety, use and convenience should come first.

The most common type of collar is flat collar or buckle collar. Identification such as your dog's name, your name and contact info are usually attached in this type of collar. So if unfortunately your Poodle got lost while you are having a walk or out to shop for his toys, there is a greater chance of having him back having your contact information attached on his neck. Poodles have dense coat that usually attracts the crowd - and fleas as well. Flea infestation in Poodles can be quite difficult to treat given this breed's coat. Therefore a flea collar is a great option when your dog is at high risk of being infested with fleas. This flea collar is impregnated with chemicals that repel fleas.

A collar can be a great training tool too. Slip collars, prong collars, martingale collars and electronic collars are types of collars commonly used when training a dog. These collars, despite each others differences in style and design, control and prevent a dog from doing things you do not want to.

A collar could be made of nylon, metal, cotton or leather. Nylon, metal and leather collars are certainly strong and will definitely control your dog regardless of the size. However, these materials can irritate the skin given the fact that Poodles have sensitive skin and are prone to skin problems. Choosing a collar made of cotton is therefore a great idea. And since Poodles have unique head shape, there are collars specifically created for them. One for example is a martingale Poodle collar, a collar that prevents a Poodle from slipping out of it.

When you have finally decided what type of collar is best for your four-legged friend, do not forget to get more information on their proper use. Get a collar that fits perfectly around the neck of your dog. It shouldn't be too tight to squeeze his esophagus nor too loose to let him slip out.

TAPEWORMS IN OUR CATS AND DOGS: A SLIMY SUBJECT

worldsvet — Fri, 18 Jul 2008 11:21:56 +0000

At the busiest moment of my Friday-afternoon’s office hours, an emergency phone call came in from a dear client who I’ll call Miss Jones. Normally soft-spoken and always very reserved, the elderly Miss Jones was now on the other end of the line screaming uncontrollably in what seemed to me a state of mortal terror. When finally I could ask her what was wrong, she screeched at the top of her lungs that she and Muffy (her pampered white Persian cat) were watching the Oprah Show on TV. Hoping to calm her down some, I sort of jokingly said that she shouldn’t watch Oprah if it scared her so much. I could tell by the short pause and her low growl that she wasn’t amused.

She continued on to say that as she was sitting there on her sofa, engrossed in the tragic plight of Oprah’s latest guest, she suddenly became aware of a cool wetness on her bare leg. Looking down toward little Muffy (who was sound asleep on her lap), she noticed to her absolute horror that a slimy little white worm had crawled out of the cat’s rear end, and was now scootching its way across her lower thigh.

From the description that she had given me, I told her it was probably just a simple tapeworm, but I’d like to see it just to make sure. Could she bring it in? She answered that this was no longer possible because she smashed the repulsive little critter beyond recognition with the TV remote control.

Tapeworm infection in dogs and cats is very common and, fortunately, the methods of diagnosing the disease are fairly simple. Most of the time, my clients will actually see the white and sometimes wiggling parasite in their pet’s feces. Other times, the owners will find only the dried, rice-like worm segments around the anus of the pet or on the furniture where the animal sleeps. Dogs will often drag their butts on the ground (scooting) to ease the irritation of the emerging worms. Sometimes the only clue an owner may have of a tapeworm infection is that their pet has a dull thin coat or a sickly appearance or is just not as active as usual.

A major culprit in the spread and continuous reinfection of tapeworms is the common flea. When I tell my clients this, I always get one of those looks of disbelief. But it’s true. Put very simply, a flea eats a tapeworm egg. This egg then hatches inside the flea and undergoes a couple of larval growth stages. Then, in the course of grooming itself, the dog or cat unknowingly eats the tapeworm-loaded flea and, in the course of digesting this flea, releases the tapeworm into the intestines. Here it attaches to the gut wall and sets up housekeeping. Your pet can also catch these parasites by eating rodents and consuming the uncooked meat and guts of tapeworm-infested domestic and wild animals.

Besides being just plain gross to look at, tapeworms can be a serious health risk to both pets and humans. Managing tapeworms should be part of a broader parasite control program that includes all of the nasty intestinal worms that our dogs and cats can get. Treating tapeworms with over-the-counter worm pills is rarely successful because the most common breed of worm is resistant to these products. The worm pills sold by most veterinarians are the only ones that will work with any reliability. Keeping fleas under control is also an important part of tapeworm management.

Thanks again.

A Critical Appreciation of Fleas

masterprudent — Fri, 18 Jul 2008 07:31:06 +0000

Because what else do you do in your last ever high school english lesson? I'll post my "song for a musical" that was my last music assignment if I can get the file to a managable size.

A Critical Appreciation of Fleas

By Bruno Nosferatu

The flea, somewhat like the vampire, is a much maligned creature. All sorts of playground taunts have been hauled its way; from bloodsucker to bird killer. Furthermore anecdotal evidence suggests that these claims are not wholly baseless. However in the flea’s defence it should be noted that they also provide valuable services to humanity.

Consider, if you would, the flea circus. This institution has, for thousands of years, provided young and impoverished children a cheap yet perfectly enjoyable form of entertainment. It is true that observing a flea shot from a canon lacks the frisson that its human counterpart enjoys but consider; it also lacks the danger, expense and horrendous noise.

They also provide a cheap and easy method of resolving neighbourhood disputes. A recent survey by the flea appreciation society confirmed that as many as 89% of all such arguments revolved around barking dogs. The adult flea, infected as it is with tapeworm eggs, provides a quick and handy method for disposing of such irritating pests. Should your fracas be the result of other factors, a handful of fleas in your rival’s meal provides a neat, if temporary, solution.

Adding to the value of this wingless insect is that it provides work for the hopeless nerd. Consider the number of entomologists kept in gainful employment by this fascinating parasite. In fact they keep our bespectacled friends so busy that there are more papers published in entomology than in any other branch of science.

So should you fall on hard times or find yourself in a third rate motel (or both), don’t worry; your bloodsucking friend while be right there with you – perfectly happy to enjoy your company. Remember; a flea doesn’t judge you by your creed or culture – all it wants is a little warm blood.

Itchy and Scratchy

lookmomlook — Fri, 18 Jul 2008 05:58:22 +0000

I have to say that this has been the worst summer for the itchies and the scratchies around here! First, it was the mosquitos that were migrating from the abandoned pool next door. Those have since migrated elsewhere since a bunch of "flippers" are doing an amazing job on getting things cleaned up fast on that once trash ridden foreclosure. Now, we are blessed with the arrival of fleas and ticks. You know, if it's not one thing, it's the other. There's always something!

Our lovely little one year old puppy, Harry, is scratching up a storm! He did this last year as well. It was only a matter of time before we would once again be alarmed at the little bugga-boos he brings into the house. My time is now spent on vigil, waiting for the next itch or twitch (I am not talking band members or "So You Think You Can Dance" contestants, so don't be confused here). Thank goodness our husky mix doesn't have nearly the skin, bug issues Harry does. There is something to be said for that protective undercoat they have. I just might try to tape some of the big hair tumbleweeds that float around our wood floors to Harry to see if it helps.

I hate to keep putting all kinds of chemicals on him. The kids all snuggle him and I don't want his itches from fleas/ticks to turn into itches from skin reactions to applying combos of meds to it. He has already taken the oral pill thing that the vet gave us a while back and he still suffers. Of course, I dug out all my "recipe books" and started looking for something less harmful but still effective.

I aim to try a couple of these out by the time the summer flea season is over. First of all, you need to get rid of existing fleas. I have given Harry a wonderful flea bath. I personally used a natural shampoo that I purchased at the pet supply store because I was in a frantic state thinking about how many fleas were being transported into my home. I didn't feel like I had time to research yet.

However, you can easily make the following flea shampoo: 10 ounces of Water, 1 or 2 tablespoons liquid castile soap (the less the better), 1 teaspoon glycerin or 1/4 teaspoon vegetable oil, 1 teaspoon orange oil. Combine ingredients in a jar. Shake to blend. Dampen your dogs fur and put enough shampoo on to cause a lather. Work into fur and rinse. This can keep in the jar for 6 months in a covered glass jar. This recipe should kill fleas in all stages of development due to the citrus oil. Do not use this on cats however, because they are known to be sensitive to it.

Once you have your little buddy washed up. Focus on washing everything and anything they may lay or sit on. Try to wash or at list dry all bedding and furniture covers at a high heat to kill the little nasty pests. That made a huge difference. Then I sprinkled the dog beds with a natural flea repellent powder.

Here's a recipe for a flea repellent powder: 1/2 teaspon dried eucalyptus, fennel, or rosemary and penny royal. Grind herbs in a blender or a spice mill. Add to 1/4 cup cornstarch. Combine in a glass jar by shaking. Sprinkle on pet bedding and you can also rub into fur.

Here's a spray that can also be used: 1 or 2 drops each essential oils of eucalyptus, citronella, tea tree, and penny royal, add to 2 cups Witch hazel in a glass jar. Put a few drops on the pets collar to see if they react at all to the essential oils. REMEMBER: Essential oils can be very potent. Especially for some pets with skin sensitivities. If the pet doesn't react. Place 1 teaspoon worth on the pets collar and rub 1/2 teaspoon into their fur. Do not use with citronella on cats! This can be stored indefinitely in the glass jar, covered.

Some other great ideas:

Make a dream pillow for your pet bed to repel fleas. Make a large sachet about 8 inches by 11 inches. Fill with any of the following insect repellent herbs; southernwood, rose geranium, palmerosa, rue, camphor, feverfew, lavender (LOVE lavendar, it's so useful and smells so good!), rosemary, sage, catmint (YES! You should see all the catmint I have growing around here anyway!) pennyroyal, or eucalyptus.

Other natural measures you can take: Use a flea comb to remove present fleas, Ingesting Brewer's Yeast will cause your dog to give off an odor that fleas don't like (there are wafers and supplements available at pet stores and health food stores. I know that Pet Supplies Plus stocks these.), Add a couple cloves of garlic a day to the pet's food (mmm...that sounds yummy. Garlic doggy breath), Submerge pet in water to drown fleas (that means all but the head. That's almost impossible with my wiggly dogs, but I tried!).

If you are having tick problems, the same soaps above will help. You can use a repellant by placing a couple drops of essential oil of rose geranium or palmerosa on their cloth collar every week. Be sure to always check pets if they have been in tick populated areas.

Here's an article about fleas and ticks. I use one of my favorite books "Better Basics for the Home" by Annie Berthhold-Bond for the above recipes. If you want more choices, look here or here.

I have completed everything except I still have to wash some of the furniture covers. Although, I did vacuum all the areas thoroughly being sure to dispose of junk in the dirt catcher (What do you really call that part? I don't really know.) and clean out the dirt catcher throughly with flea killer/spray.

Hopefully Harry and your pets will soon sleep soundly. May the only itching be the itch they have to chase bunnies in their sweet doggy dreams.

Free, Natural Flea and Ant Treatment

chirodc632001 — Wed, 16 Jul 2008 15:04:34 +0000

Ants:

Get packets of Equal. The sweet taste comes from a chemical called Aspartame which is a neurotoxin (kills brain cells) and causes other health issues (Aspartame research).
Find the line of ants then put a small mound of Equal/Aspartame chemical NEAR the line (or in corners of your home if you only see random ants).
Apply a few drops of water on the mound. You will see an increase of ants, however, they will bring the Equal back to their home and feed it to the rest. The toxic nature of Aspartame will eventually kill the ants.

Fleas:

[caption id="attachment_34" align="alignright" width="120" caption="Flea trap set up"][/caption]

Equipment needed: Desk lamp, dish of soapy water.
Place dish(s) near the sleeping area of your animals.
Place the lamp directly over the top of the dish and turn it on.
Turn out all other light sources in the room and close all blinds. Fleas are more active when dark.

Since fleas are attracted to vibration and heat they will try and leap at the hot lamp head and fall into the soapy water. Some will hang out around the rim of the dish and/or the floor. Blow around the dish. This will cause the fleas to start jumping. Pin them and place them in the soapy water. May need to do this up to 1 month.

Fleas lay around 200-400 eggs a day. Vacuuming and cleaning is a must. Throw the vacuum bag away afterwards.

Many of the eggs that left behind may hatch. The larva will crawl to a nearby crack and form cocoons. Those cocoons will hatch in about 2 weeks. The larva depend on moisture to survive. You can spread a compound called dichotomous earth (non-toxic) in cracks and along the base molding to help dry up the larva. You can also apply it directly on your pet with the use of a flea comb.

If after about 1 months the problem isn't resolved the alternative would be the exterminator and/or flea bombs.

If you go this route first you are being responsible by not exposing yourself and your animals to unnecessary toxic compounds (guess you could say the same thing about those who actually consume Stevia before considering Equal).

Arm yourself with knowledge!

Dr. Brady Hurst
True Health Center for Advanced Alternative Medicine and Chiropractic.
www.TrueHealthDC.com

Scooby Doo Didn't Show...by Lisa Harmon

greatdaneservicedog — Wed, 16 Jul 2008 15:00:03 +0000

I'm a happy boy, Mom... let's play some more! Kenai 27 weeks old

Kenai went to obedience class last night, and Scooby Doo didn't show up!! We had some attempts to rubberneck, to bugger with other dogs, and to get excited, but the Gentle Leader made it all so much easier. He loose leash walked so well we made it to 4 marshmallows on the spoon. We'd have done 5 or more if my hands weren't having tremors. Sorry buddy.

I found myself to be nervous before we left for the OC. No way was I going to let my anxiety give him another awful class. So I did some praying, some singing, and some deep breathing all the way there. I really wanted him to do well, even if there is touch of ego in that: how good it is to show off the marvelous boy that rocks his public outings. More than that, though, I don't want him to have any more flubs, because he should be proud of himself.

Dogs know when they've knocked out a killer show. You can see a dog's head pick up, their tail come out, and they stand up taller. It's easy for them to feel when they've made you happy, and they enjoy it. Makes 'em feel good, knowing how well they've done. Kenai did his work, did it well, and did it without treats. Affection was his reward, and at one point, he got so happy he licked the make up off my face and leaned.

He held his sit/stay and down/stay while I went all around him, ran in front of him, looped behind him, jumped over him and anything else spastic I could think of to try and make him break it. When released, Kenai stood his beautiful self up and popped out an honest to goodness show "stack", like he was in a conformation ring. Talk about proud of himself!

His legs were (and are) very sore, which makes holding that sit/stay even more significant. He held, even if it hurt. But I don't want him to hurt, I want him to be comfortable. So I'll be checking out some homeopathic remedies to reduce his pain and inflammation.

I just don't know that it is Panosteitis in the bones, because he keeps going for the big tendon at the back of his hind legs. If I press the bones he's fine, but if I mess with the Achilles and flexor tendons he reacts. Pano is a nutritional growth issue where the bones are very dense, and painful as they grow. Pups can chew their legs, and even go lame.

Kenai is a heavy boned, fast growing Dane pup, so it is certainly possible. But I just hesitate to say he has Pano: it's almost as if the tendons aren't growing quite as fast as the bones and are being stretched harder than normal. I don't know. Whatever it is, I'll see what I can come up with to help him.

The only rotten thing about last night was Kenai came home with fleas... oh I was mad! None of my dogs have ever had fleas. Ticks, yeah. But I not fleas. Now I have to find something to get rid of them, on him and in the house. I don't like using flea and tick stuff on my boys: if it makes me sick, it might make them sick if used too often. I brushed and sprayed him with the natural repellant I have, and sprayed the furniture/carpets and such. But repellants don't kill.

♣

BB wound up having surgery yesterday, to remove what looked like a peice of metal from his intestines. It was metal. It was also attached to a collar... how on earth he got it and swallowed it unseen is a mystery. Had to be overnight, the same night he decimated that bone. Beebs is doing very well, though, and had his stomach "tacked", called gastroplexy, to prevent his stomach from twisting if he happens to bloat.

But the vets put on such pressure for us to neuter him I got mad. They called 3 times, not to tell Mom about her puppy's emergency surgery but to pressure her to neuter. Not a word about how long the surgery would be, what complications might arise, etc...nothing but neuter, neuter, neuter. The final call, they said since we weren't going to castrate, they'd just go do the surgery and hung up. Mom was sobbing, and I was pissed.

BB has an undescended testicle, which isn't too rare. It's hanging out up there, atrophied and useless in his abdomen since it can't get through the super narrow pelvis. Undescended testicles are more likely to grow tumors and even become cancerous. I know that, and that one single sentence was all those vets had to say, and we would say thank you but no.

It would be nice to not have to worry about another surgery to nueter him later, but we have medical reasons NOT to neuter yet, if at all. And you cannot look at his smashed up pelvis, his impaired leg and tell me he won't ever need another surgery to keep him walking. It's not like there won't be an opportunity later.

Nuetering is an elective surgery, it is not medically necessary. And BB cannot risk developing the super fast bone growth that giant breeds usually will have if castrated before adulthood. Male Danes will grow super tall and super skinny if neutered before 12-18 months old. Experts in giant breed growth are starting to say it all over the place, finally.

If BB's leg bones grow too fast, he is far more likely to speed up the process of deformity in his damaged leg. He bears most of his weight on his front legs, and they are splaying already because of it. Neutering him now would make those other legs longer, faster, and weaker. They could even fracture the smaller bones from nothing but the improper distribution of the weight of his body.

Our sweet Bananna Butt could wind up an amputee or even need to be put to sleep if the deformity cannot be repaired again, or the other legs give out. I WILL NOT ENDANGER HIS LIFE FOR SOMETHING NOT MEDICALLY NECESSARY. I was so angry at the heavy handed tactics and the fact that they told us nothing at all about his emergency surgery, that I called Dr. Fox, the vet that had done BB's leg surgery.

Ten minutes later, Dr. Fox called back after going into the operating room and finding out what was going on. He certainly knew I was mad about the inappropriate way we were treated. He did as he always does: give a complete and detailed report of what was being done, what complications we need to worry about, how long BB would likley be in intensive care, and asked if we had any questions. THAT is how you talk to a dog's owner.

The vet in charge hasn't called us yet today. She'd better suck up her pride and either apologize or seriously alter her bedside manner. Mom's still very fragile, so I have the phone. Boy do I have the phone... I better not get avoidance, either. Can ya tell I'm a little displeased?

We hope to have the Beebster home again this weekend, but he can't leave until he's eating and pooping normally. So we've got our fingers crossed.

Bugs like to eat me

myheart4you — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 15:22:07 +0000

I received a lot of bug bites in the past week. I don't know how many, but there's a lot. Let me count.

So far, I counted 14. Most of them on my arms. I'll have to check my Oreo for fleas. :(

Speaking of Oreo, I get jealous if someone else takes Oreo away from me and carries him around as if he's theirs. I'm like *hisses!* Oreo is not a property to me at all, he's my buddy and of course belongs to me. :P

Pet Scratching Series - Eeek! My Dog Has Fleas

shanemac — Sun, 13 Jul 2008 02:57:30 +0000

If your dog has dreaded, unrelenting itching, when it started your first question was probably, “What will stop the horrible itching and scratching?” And the second question may have been, “What caused this skin problem?”
I’d like to talk about the second question, and address only one possible cause. If you have not seen your veterinarian about this problem that is your first step. Often the cause of skin itch is diabolically difficult to diagnose but there are tests and procedures that will eliminate some causes of pruritus (the high-brow medical term for skin itch).
The first possible cause of itching and scratching is fleas. Don’t think your dog does not have enough fleas to cause his or her desperate scratching. Dogs (and cats) are quite often allergic to fleas and a bite can cause a reaction very much like the reaction humans have to a mosquito bite. If you imagine many mosquitoes on your body biting you all over you can imagine how a flea-infested dog may feel. If your dog is not fully protected from fleas that is your first step and should be taken immediately.
First, give the dog a thorough bath with a pesticide-free shampoo designed for flea control. Do not, under any circumstances, use products like kerosene or Dettol or any other product not designed to be used on the skin of a pet. And don't be misled by the word, "natural". Many natural products can be irritating to your dog's sensitive skin. Peppermint oil, to name just one may smell good but it is a skin irritant and not a good choice if your dog has skin problems.Many human products can also be damaging for our pets who have different skin pH from ours. If your pet has been furiously scratching for a while his skin is sore and sensitive. And sensitivity is what he needs from you in considering the treatment.
You’ve taken your first step. You’ve bathed your dog in a quality flea shampoo but that is only the beginning. If there are fleas in the house get everyone out for a few hours, go for a picnic, and set off some flea bombs before you leave. Your precious pooch should be feeling better already after that visit to the park for a picnic.
Now it’s time to think about the permanent banishment of fleas from your life and the lives of your pets. There are many choices. Your lifestyle and belief system will kick in here to influence your choice. But that’s fine because there are many solutions. If you want ease of use and peace of mind you may choose Frontline Plus, Revolution, or Advantix. If you want something more natural you may choose an essential oil product, perhaps one with ti tree oil. And don’t forget about adding garlic to your pet’s food. It is not only good for keeping fleas at bay, it is also a healthy food supplement.
For the ongoing health of your pet do consider not using an organophosphate product and now is a good time to be consulting with your vet because the right choice can also prevent ticks that can lead to tick paralysis and death.
By now your beloved pet must be swooning with joy not to have creepy-crawly, jumpy, egg-laying fleas on his body and in his bedding. Once you have overcome the initial infestation you’ll find it easy from then on. Just a little on-going attention is all you’ll need and you’ll once again have a happy, healthy itch-free pet.
This business of eradicating fleas is a little bit like planting a flowering tree. There is some effort in the beginning but it rewards you and your pampered pet for years to come.

Phantom Itchiness

erinslick — Sat, 12 Jul 2008 02:39:35 +0000

I treated the cats for fleas today. All of a sudden I'm all itchy and I think things are crawling on me.

Why Oh Wye?

Chris — Fri, 11 Jul 2008 09:22:09 +0000

Your streets are small
But bookshops abound
The houses are made
Of books that are found
On the page strewn ground
Lying in fields that surround
And dangling in the trees
Put there by angry fleas
As a protest against Booth
Who flooded Hay with books
A vision, detremental to fleas
As they don't like books or antiques.